I was just reading a post on the Listserv reagarding a list of guidelines for new rod owners and I thought it would be a nice addition to have one listed here. Anyone care to contribute?

Here are a few:

• Never put a rod away wet
• Store rod sections in their bag with the larger diameter ends down
• For long term storage, hang in it's sack a cool dark place
• Do not twist when assembling or disassembling ferrules
• Make sure ferrules are clean and dry before assembling
• Never use any abrasives, oil or wax of any type on ferrules.
• Check the fit of your ferrules several times a day to be sure they haven't come loose or twisted
• Be very careful not to get DEET on the rod varnish as it will soften or melt

What else?

Carl,
Garrison, Bob Summers, Gary Dabroski and several others set the butt end of their butt section in the bag since they include a ferrule plug affixed to the top of the bag so I'd say they meant the rod to be stored in this manner. I always place my rod sections in the bag with the large ends down with the exception of the butt, I do not lay the tube flat since you can't tell if the heavy butt section is lying on top of the tip sections and this alone can cause a storage set. I try to keep my tubes as upright as possible to prevent this from occuring.

As far as wax is concerned, pure parrafin should be used as a lubricant and the excess wiped free with a lint free cloth, or plain dry bar soap. If you have ferrules which are slightly loose, i.e. they tend to rotate on their own accord during a days fishing a quick fix would be to apply bow string wax to the make ferrule, this prevents them from rotating and is non invasive. Regards..........

I see. So your suggestion is to store the butt section with the ferrule down so as not to introduce contaminates into the ferrule (assuming it doesn't have a plug). Correct?

Good tip on the wax as well. I have never had cause to tighten up a ferrule's fit except on the building end.

Also, I should say that it isn't terrible to (once in a while) clean up the ferrules with a couple of turns of oil-free 0000 steel wool.

I suppose the bottom line is simply to keep them as clean as possible.

Thanks Banjo!

If you use alcohol, with Q-Tips and lint free cloth (WARNING: be extrememly careful not to let the alcohol have prolonged contact with varnish, i.e. see Carls DEET warning!) the ferrules should never even need the steel wool treatment. Clean is the #1 priority for proper fitting ferrules. I consider these things no more than a thanks to the rod, and its maker, for a day streamside much like a good wipe down and some gun oil for my SxS after a day in the field!

Well said!

I'm the new guy and it's old but "push together, pull apart". This refers to the assembly and dis-assembly of the rod. Hands close together when putting the rod together and far apart when taking it down. DRY THEM OUT! Even if they're not wet. Set them aside out of the bag for at least 12 hours after you have fished. Oh! As for what Banjo says, it's usually gospel.
Rolf

Yep. Another good tip!

One that I have never had to deal with (yet), and one that goes along with what you are saying, is a completely stuck ferrule. One suggestion I read (Keane? Gierach?) is to keep a couple small pieces of rubber with you. They will allow you to get better purchase on a wet blank, or if you have wet hands. I'll be the first to admit that I don't do this, but I promise you I'll be kicking myself the first time it is warranted.

Come to think of it, that might be a nice addition to a rod sock...

Welcome Rolf! Good to have another FE Thomas fan about.

If you're gonna take the time to break it down when coming out of the woods or getting to a better spot. Take the extra minute to pull the line off. At least with the rod still together, your more inclined to keep an eye on your tip. Broke it down 2 years ago on the opener to get up a hill. Left the line in and a twig got caught in the line. Had the 2nd tip in the truck, so at least the day wasn't shot. Usually with the graphite, I felt the resistance sooner in similar situations.... I guess old habits were hard to break.

OK. I guess I'll have to give it a try (good idea with the lapping Mats!). But if I miss and get a ferrule stuck up my nose, I'm coming after you guys.

Great thread..looks like most of the main ones are covered..a couple I can think of of the top of my head.

When snagged on rock/bush/tree..something other than a fish..never jerk your fly line with the rod.....point the rod staight at the problem and pull the line with your hand....do not put undue stress on that rod to put in a set.

I also take my rod apart when moving in the woods....but I also take a spare rod sock with me. I just slip the rod into the rod sock and carry it. I find this helps avoid that broken tip...ouch. The rod sock folds to no space at all and can be tossed if it gets too bad.

I like to wax my rod after every outting....a good grade car wax with no silicone...I like the mild cleaning ones. This helps keep that pesky moisture out from cracks...hook hits and keeps a surface that the line does not stick to.

Nose grease - man you must have known some wierd old fihermen.
The Scottish ghillies method is to rub the ferrule against the short hairs at the nape of your neck.
Less obtrusive and a good neck scratch before a day on the river sounds much more pleasant than the possibility of accidentally sticking a rod up your nose

Alright. After fighting off the awkward feeling of wiping ferrules on my nose, I'm a believer. I have now used this 'technique' both fitting ferrules and when on the river putting rods together and it works absolutely wonderfully!

I've got to wonder who the first person to try it was, but I'm glad they did. Thanks Streamside!

Here's another good tip. If you are on unfamiliar waters or terrain, it is a good idea to leave your rod in it's protective tube until you reach the waters edge or location you are going to fish. I very seldom put my rod together at my vehicle and then walk the trail to the river unless I know the area like the back of my hand. If you have to carry it to the river assembled carry it pointing backwards that way if you fall you won't break your rod. Also a cheap neoprene reel cover is an excellent investment for those expensive fly reels and reel seat hardware. Last year I fell right on a huge rock trying to make my way up a muddy embankment in felt soles after a rain. I fell right on my Lamson Lightspeed #1 attached to my favorite 3wt. I fell so hard that I literally drove the butt of my rod and reel right into the mud. Luckily I was carrying my rod backwards so it didn't get broke and had my neoprene cover over the reel and seat. I thought for sure something was bent or broke or scratched, but when I washed the mud off the reel cover there wasn't a mark on my reel or hardware.

It might be a bit of a pain carrying your tube and reel cover around with you from fishinmg hole to fishing hole, but it's better than slipping, falling on and breaking an expensive or sentimental cane rod.

I've been lubricating my ferrules with as you guys say " Nose Grease" since it was taught to me some 50 years ago. Along side of your nose or across your forhead is pretty much the same.

I was also taught if I ever encountered a rod that was hopelessly stuck togather, to place the rod behind your knees, ( while sitting down), Grasp the respective pieces of the rod with your hands tightly against the outside your legs. Grip the rod tightly, and spread your legs apart. The most stubbornly stuck rod pieces will easily come apart with no danger to the rod.



Toddfather

Back in the Stone Age, there was an article in an outdoor magazaine that had a tip on getting a rod apart. Put the rod behind your back. I'm predominately left-handed so this is how I do it: Have the reel end down toward the ground with your right hand on it below the ferrules with the thumb pointed toward the ground. The left hand will be pointed the same direction with your hand above the ferrules. Push with the right and pull with the left. Works great. As to nose grease, rub the rod in the crease between your nose and cheek. If you stick the rod up your nose, you shouldn't be flyfishing or driving a car. Don't worry about people staring...they probably stare as us because we use little dinky rods with little hooks and feathers that won't catch big fish. Let's keep it a secret and let them stare and wonder.
Have to add a tip for pipe smokers: My father used nose grease on the outside of the bowl of his pipe and polish it with a soft cloth.

believe it or not....I saw an article in a peer reviewed dental journal, on the use of nose grease to lubricate a rod on a precision instrument (NOT used in a person's mouth)

at first I was disgusted that such an article would even be printed....but then I thought

perhaps a book could be written....101 Uses for Nose Grease

....Ummm....did I ever tell you a good use for toe jam?....

Well, since I'm new here, I finally got around to reading this topic. No one ever accused me of being quick (except my ex wives)

OK...for youse guys who didn't follow all the great advice!

How many of you carry a first-aid kit for your rod on stream?
I used to carry a small baggy in my vest with 4/0 steel wool and 2000 w/d sandpaper.
But recently, at the 2005 Colorado Rodmakers Reunion, included in the registration packet was a "Streamside First-aid Kit" that has a little bit of whatever you need to make almost any repair on stream. This little kit was put together by Darrell Groth and almost anything you need (in small quantities) to make almost any kind of temporary repair on your 'boo.
In a small zip lock baggy is a gripper pad to get a better grip to seperate a stuck rod, a small tube of super glue for to be used as glue (duhrr!) and temporary varnish, a small pad of 4/0 steel wool, a small piece of 1000 and 2000 wet dry sandpaper, a small piece of bees wax for a loose ferrule, alcohol swabs and Q-tips for cleaning ferrules, a single edge razor, and a small spool of white .004" thread.

Even if you follow all those great tips that has been listed on these pages, sometimes bad things happen, and if it happens a long way from home, at least the trip wasn't a total loss and you can get back on the stream.
Best to you,
Mike
PS...As far as I'm concerned, oil on a ferrule, nose, forehead, cheek, neck, 30wt, ANYKIND of oil, is a bad thing waiting to happen. Even if you wipe your ferrule off after applying it there is still an oily residue or it wouldn't work. ANY oil is a dirt magnet. It will scour your ferrules and produce a worn ferrule sooner than about anything I can think of! A quick swab out of the female with alcohol followed by a wipe of the male slide with 4/0 wool followed by a wipe of alcohol will, in all probability, solve your dilema. If not, a more aggressive approach with 2000 sandpaper may be warranted. My two cents!

Hmm. Now that is some good advice Mike! Not the nose grease part, because nose grease kicks .

Ever since my dog had a run-in with some barbed wire a few years ago and I had to give him 6 stitches using a sewing needle and Kevlar fly tying thread, I've carried a decent first aid kit for mammals - gauze, drugs, tweezers, forceps, leatherman, suture kit, duct tape, head lamp, etc. I guess now I'll have to add to that kit some of the things you suggest for rod repair. I might even toss in some of those small pouches of 5 minute epoxy for good measure.

Thanks for the tip!

Chris,
LMAO!

Chris,

Make sure to throw a tube of superglue in that first aid kit. The thin standard stuff not the gell. Superglue is sterile and does a great job of sealing a wound. It's the same stuff that Band-Aide brand sells as "Liquid Bandages."

A few years ago while camping at lake mcconaughey in nebraska, a buddy of mine slashed his foot open on a piece of sheet metal sticking up somewhere in the water. After cleaning with peroxide we sealed up the cut (which was 3 or 4 inches long and nearly 1/2 inch deep at the deepest) with superglue and it worked great. He was back on the water skis the next day and he doesn't even have a scar from it!

Mark

Mark,
I'm with you on that and the super glue is in the first-aide kit for the rod.

I'll say this... while trying to show two guys how to split bamboo, I proceeded to shove my thumb against the froe and cut it clean to the bone.
While explaining to those guys that this is not how it's normally done, I was squirting blood everywhere!
I continued splitting out the half culm until I decided the blood wasn't going to stop. By this time the other guys were standing outside and I was alone. I walked over to the wood lathe and grabbed the bottle of super glue I used for filling gaps in inserts and squeezed some on the cut. A piece of paper towel over the cut and a bit of pressure IMMEDIATELY stopped the bleeding. Unfortunately it didn't repair the nerve damage and my left thumb is still numb to this day. Oh Well. I make Bamboo and if you don't get some blood on every rod, I figure I ain't doing something right!
Super glue is a GREAT first-aide component of your kit.
Now...I ain't no doc, and if you get hurt in the shop or someplace, go see a doc. But maybe until you get there... a squirt of super-glue might be a good thing!
Thanks for the reminder Mark!
Mike

Geeze...I go back to make a couple of edits and two posts before I can fix my post! LOL!
Glad to hear you've washed your nose! LOL I should go wash mine I'm sure!
Mike

mike - that story made me cringe. sorry to hear about your thumb. my dad is always cutting himself on something or other and uses super glue to seal his wounds all the time. good stuff. luckily i've learned from watching my dad all these years to be a little more careful. thanks for posting the rod first aid kit suggestion. i'll have to put one together to keep in my tackle bag.

Chris,

Super Glue that is UNOPENED will freeze/thaw fine with no ill effects. When I buy it in bulk for woodworking (2 oz bottles), I freeze it until I need a new bottle. If it has been opened and partially used, I don't know.

Brian

nose grease is something I have used for many years for fishing rod ferrules. I was taught to use it when working as an electrical maintainance worker in college on the mail end of light bulbs so they don't corrode inside the socket. The oil builds up within minutes after washing your nose surface as you can tell by pressing your nose against a window and look at the grease spot.

BELIEVE IT OR NOT....in a peer review DENTAL journal (of my specialty) there was an article published in the "Tips to the Reader" section, regarding the lubrication of an instrument called a "surveyor" (not something used in a patient's mouth)....using....*drumroll*...NOSE OIL

now....has anyone used belly button lint for a strike indicator??

we use little dinky rods with little hooks and feathers that won't catch big fish.

This made me want to post my Avatar.

I haven't, but I do use those foam ear plus from time to time.

lots of great stuff in here. Athough I'm not a BOO guy (yet) the guy that taught me to fish 30 years ago was. I learned on an old at that time boo rod. The nose grease, not assembling untill you were on the water, hold behind the knees to take apart, cleaning and drying were gospel to him and would cost me a fishing trip if I missed one. Super glue is always in my first aid kit last year we had to glue a pretty nasty cut on my friends dog's foot up while grouse hunting the vet said he would have done the same. One thing to learn is how to remove fish hooks with a peice of monofilament line you never know when you or some one with you is goin to get STUCK. As far as strike indicators go I have been using water baloons blown up about the size of a grape easy to adjust depth/bouyancy float high in rougher water and very sensitive plus you can get a bunch for a couple of bucks.
someday I"ll get back to BOO but untill then
Tight lines
Ryan