Up until last year I used an epoxy called G2. I had 2 ferrules pull off so I switched to a Cold Cure epoxy. Well guess what? I was putting 2 of the rods I built last year together and pulled 2 ferrules off. My guess is that because it is so dry in the house the bamboo shrank and broke bond with the epoxy.

What do others use so they don't have to experience this annoyance. Is there a glue that will not dry out and remain flexible?

Cheers!

Arne

I have used Pliobond but have recently been using the 2 part epoxy mentioned in Wayne's book. I fished a rod this past weekend and the outside temp was 10 degrees when we started fishing. I was worried that I was going to have issues with the ferrules but I didn't. At the end of the day, they separated just fine and the male and female are still in their place. I do not pin but I am thinking about it just for the added confidence.

i love plyobond!but make sure the bamboo to ferrule fit is tight,and the inside of the ferrule is smooth and clean, steve

From all accounts the Pliobond method is by far the best, but I believe it depends on a very tight fit between the cane and ferrule. I have no personal experience with it but I know a bit about adhesives and glues and the technology seems right. Also, and of much more credibility than my own speculation, it is used by some folks who are masters of the craft and who sell too many rods to be bothered by bad ferrules. All of the old wrecks that I have played with had a rather loose fit as I suspect was common on a lot of blue collar production rods. I have used hardware store epoxy -- the slowest setting I can find, usually 60 min. It works fine. I had only one failure, which happened the second outing after the rebuild and I believe was due to lack of proper ferrule preparation. I re-did the job right and my buddy has been fishing that rod for 12 years now. I now use Rod Bond and have not had any problems.
Clean the ferrule with acetone. Scrub the glue surfaces with 600 grit sand paper to provide a good bonding surface. Clean with alcohol immediately before glue up.
AgMD

Thanks for your input. I believe that Wayne Cattenach uses Devcon but I had 2 ferrules pull off with that as well. I think Pliobond would work as it remains flexible. I saw a demo where the guy ignited the pliobond and burned off the volatiles before pushing the ferrule in place. Any thoughts on that or should I just push the ferrule on and let it set up?

Arne

PS who sells Rod Bond?

I believe the fire method you describe is the only way. The volatiles will not evaporate through the metal ferrule or the bamboo. I think Pliobond is a contact adhesive which would normally be used by applying a thin layer to both surfaces, allowing them to dry to the "tacky" stage and then the pieces are put together. Depending on the materials being glued, rollers are used to force the surfaces together and to drive out any air pockets. You can't do that with ferrules. The problem is how to slide two tacky surfaces together and remove the volatiles. Fire burns off the volatiles and softens the adhesive enough to allow the parts to slide into place.
Rod Bond is made by U-40 and I believe is sold by most if not all rod building supply houses.
AgMD

You could also try pinning the ferrules. I use a shaft epoxy (for golf clubs) and pin the ferrules. Pinning only takes about 2 min. a piece and that way you know the ferrules are not going anywhere.

There is also a method of using the pliobond without flaming. I haven't tried it but the person that posted it beleives it and others have tried it as well. I think if you go over to Todd's website and search for pliobond in the tips section, you will find it. It involves putting a layer of pliobond on the blank and letting it dry. Putting a second layer on the blank and letting it dry. Spread pliobond inside the ferrule and let it dry. When you are ready to slide the ferrule on the blank, heat it with a heat gun gently and slide the ferrule on. There is no flaming in this process.

Bamboo rod building tips

http://www.bamboorodmaking.com/html/glues_-_ferrules.html

http://www.bamboorodmaking.com/html/hw_-_f...s_-_gluing.html

Any search for a perfect ferrule glue will ultimately lead one to a perfect ferrule gluing regimen. I have never had any success with Pliobond or Devcon which are both touted in this thread, but have never had a failure with other methods not promoted here.

Some points are important no matter which glue and which regimen you use.

1. The surfaces must be truly clean -- no cutting oil, no solvent residue, no sawdust. How you clean them is not as important as the outcome.

2. The surfaces to be glued must be properly prepared to a water break free finish. See Ralph O'Quinn's article here for more information: http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html

3. The fit between ferrule and rod must be appropriate for the adhesive you choose. With Pliobond, the fit needs to be extremely tight. You almost need to have to force the ferrule on to the rod. With epoxies, there must be some room for glue. You should be able to spin the ferrule on the rod section without tremendous effort. Not so loose that the ferrule falls off the dry section when held downward.

4. There must be a way for trapped air to escape. Either the glue must be the right viscosity to allow air bubbles to break through, or a channel must be made in the rod section for air to follow as it exits the ferrule.

Let's see, seems like I'm forgetting some basics.... Any other fundamentals I have overlooked?

Harry

So Harry
What do you use? or do all of theses work work with the proper method?

DreamWeaver,

I use Rod Bond Epoxy. And I ALWAYS pin ferrules. Not that I don't trust the glue... pinning seems a mark of going the extra step to me.

Harry

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one looking for the ideal way to install ferrules. Anglers Wotkshop carries Rod Bond so maybe I'll try that first. Flaming the Pliobond and binding the tabs intimidates me a bit so I'll try a simpler approach first.

Thanks guys for all your input.

Arne

After reading the article Harry mentioned I changed my ferrule prep and found if I used epoxy (G1) it was impossible to remove the ferrule if it was damaged without totally destroying the cane under it. I had to change my glue so I now use Loctite Stik'n Seal for my ferrules. It's a waterproof glue that works on just about everything. You coat the cane and the ferrule and let them cure for 10 min before pushing the ferrule on. Again surface prep is critical to a good bond but if you need to remove the ferrule it's a lot easier to do without destroying your rod.

Ken

I use PU glue or JB Weld. I had several problems with the standard 2 part epoxy. I have not had problems with PU.

Am I the only person that uses the hot melt glue sticks that we use to install tip tops? I've been using it on all my ferrules for years, and have yet to have one pull loose.

Or you can do what the Cross rod co. did and just press fit the ferrules on to the cane.

Ken

All greetings!

A Poxipol nobody used? You can glue them?

http://www.poxipol.com/

Best regards,Alexandr!

Pliobond baby!!! I made the switch last year after a few ferrules failed using some other epoxy and have not had any problems sense.