Hi.. I am looking for some help for making bamboo ferrule for my next boo project.
Those boo rod with bamboo ferrule done by M.Calviello looks great.. kinda unique too
and I was wondering have anybody tried making that.. Perhaps you can show me how and give me a tip or two..

Thank you.

~f~

This might help.

http://calviellorods.blogspot.com/2007/08/bobfs.html

Hi Carlin...
Thank you very much for the link

~f~

Seems like Baithog ( Larry Lohkamp ) have made one with the cane ferrule.
Very interesting.. very nice..
Hope he can share the his experience..

Simple cane ferrule

Got some info from Baithhog aka Larry...
and it was very educational and useful..

I am already half way through my #2..

Looks good! I think you are going to like the bamboo ferrule. It will help stiffen up the butt sections with that native cane you are using. You should be quite proud of what you have been able to achieve.

My brain is a little slow any more. The formulas that I sent you are based on the Itallian work and were created for Tonkin cane. Your can is not as stiff, which is why your first rod turned out a #3 instead of a #4. There is a chance that the walls will not be thick enough for the cane you are using. Since we do not know much about that cane, there really is no way to say whether you need to increase the thickness by a percentage or not. Once you have the ferrule fitted and the reinforcing wraps on, you should tape guides and a reel on the blank and give it a good workout. It may be fine, but it would be good to know if there are problems before you go to the expense and trouble of fitting guides, reel seat and handle. If it is not strong enough, I will be very sad for you. You should have enough strips left from the pole you cut to make a new tip with thicker socket walls.

This is what I have done so far... completed the tip section.
Looks good but I have yet to strengthen the bamboo ferrule with wrapping..

Thanks for the tips, Larry.. will give it a work out before I fit in all the hardwares..

~f~

That is a really nice piece of work. Do not forget to wrap the ferrule before you try it out. The walls need the strength of the silk. I am excited to see how you like the action.

Larry

Here is my just completed ferrule.

Larry,
A bit curious here but I was wondering if anyone has tried using a hex ring of metal at the inlet to the socket on the upper section. That is the place where the most stress would occur to the joint and it could be covered with an overwrap of thread. Can't recall where I saw it but someone once sold a tapered hex section for pounding into round NS winding checks to make them hex shaped. That would be a good tool to form metal rings to strengthen the joint.

Kiyu

Kiyu,

I add a nickel silver welt to the female bamboo ferrules I make. I think Jeff Wagner sells a tapered punch for making hex winding checks out of round ones. I use a jewelers wire bending tool and make the round checks myself from NS bar stock.

Harry

Harry,

Had a feeling I had seen info on this before and after digging through old issues of the Planing Form I found in the Jan/Feb 95 issue an article by one Richard Tyree where he described having a tapered hexagonal tool made to put the hex on/in round winding checks. Using brass (soft) as a backing in his vice he tapped this tool through the check to give it the hex shape. He created a multiple, through trial and error and some math, which he applied to the diameter across the flats x 66.667 to produce the number in 64ths of the round winding check to start with...... .315 (flats measurement) x 66.667 = 21 roughly (21/64 round check to use)
Good stuff.

Kiyu

My neighbor has a forge nearly complete and with some encouragement from me perhaps he will soon get it working. I'm thinking I should anneal some Allen wrenches of appropriate sizes, file the tapers in them and harden again with his help to make such a tool. My signature applies as always.<G>
While I have my own ideas about this, how do you make your welts and why do you make round welts for hexagonal ferrule sections?

Kiyu

Kiyu,

I like the idea of using some large hex keys to make an appropriate mandrel. I thought of doing that myself several years ago and instead purchased the wire bending mandrel. I think it only cost about $25 on ebay.

I start with a round check then hammer it hexagonal as you mention Richard Tyree doing. I may well have borrowed the idea from Richard a few years ago when I began doing things this way. Here is a picture of one I did that way as a winding check. I don't have any pictures of the 'welts' I have used on bamboo ferrules but will try to remember to shap a few when I make my next bamboo ferruled rod.

Harry

I believe that Marcelo uses a metal band at the tip of the male part of his ferrule. I haven't seen what Harry is doing, but most of the builders going with the Italian initiative are not using a metal band on the female. It adds weight and doesn't appear to be necessary. The silk wrapping of the female gives the needed hoop strength, and even there, there is a divergence in number of wraps and their length. At least one full length with 3/0 silk works so far. I have done double wrap full length and single wrap full length with a band at the opening for additional strength. A metal band might be a good addition if the rod is banged around a lot. It doesn't seem to be necessary as long as socket dimensions are at least that which was presented to the European rod gatherings in '07, '08, '09. The whole idea behind the slimmer designs is to get as close as possible to the weight and stiffness of a one piece rod. The next step is the internal composite ferrules that have no swell. I'll probably follow Tim in that direction when it warms up enough to work in the shop.