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Rod Building > General Rod Building > Grips and Reel Seats
OneKnocker
I'm brand new to this forum. I've seen some great rods. Unfortunately I don't fly fish. All my fishing is for bass and bream.
I've made 2 rods now and thought I was making some progress. I'm working on a 7'6" St Croix flipping stick. Down the road I plan to invest in a lathe and turn my own cork grips. For now I am using premade handles. I ran into a problem on this rod.
On both of my previous rods I bought reamers and chucked them in my rechargable drill. Both previous grips worked out just great. Yesterday as I was slowly reaming out a 12" rear grip the reamer sand paper came apart and tore my grip up from the inside out. So now my grip is ruined and my reamer is ruined. I'm sure my supplier will take care of me, but my question is - What did I do wrong? My drill was on a medium speed. I was taking my time.

Besides a drill press what other ways do ya'll ream out the cork?

Confused and Befuddled..... blink.gif
hcflyer
Drill + Reamer+cork =@#$%$#@^%$$ and other bad words.
I usually do it by hand and get a better results the only thing that I put in the drill is a Rat tail filr and run it in reverse

I know that there are guys that have sucess with a drill but I'm not one of em
good luck
roadking
The paper overheated and the adhesive let go. Have to be very careful when you add power. If the grip is just broken you can glue it back together, if it is torn up, well, you already know!.

Mike
OneKnocker
Thanks for the quick reply. I have some great ideas of a drill press and lathe when I get to that point.
Right now I'm looking for a trick for these larger premade cork. I agree that the reamer got too hot.
I was trying to make sure I went slow, but when the adhesive let go the cork grip just came all apart.

Thanks again for the reply.

DreamWeaver
also what might have happened is that you ran the reamer in the wrong direction,you want to run it so that you are keeping the direction that wold keep the sand paper tight, just like if you were putting on new sandpaper from the tip to bottom of reamer,because as you found out if the sandpaper lets go in the wrong direction it balls up,but running it in the correct direction it just come loose but will remain tight.
mtgrizzly52
All it took was one tore up grip for me and it was back to the ream by hand method. Never had a problem that way.

Rick (mtgrizzly52)
OneKnocker
Now I just feel goofy. That makes good sense. I know I was turning the reamer in the wrong direction, got in a hurry.
Thanks for the help.
Gnossos
If you want to get into grip making, you've already got a satisfactory tool--you don't have to wait on a lathe.

You can glue rings together on a 1/4" theaded rod with a washer and a nut on each end, or go a little fancier with a homemade or store bought jig. Or you can rig up a hand-squeeze clamp or caulking gun to be your cork press. Tight bond III, epoxy, or rod builder epoxy all work to glue the rings together.

Once you get the rings glued up, stick the 1/4" threaded rod with the cork still on it into your drill, turn it on and sand. Usually with coarse sandpaper on a stick to start, using finer grit as you work toward finished.

You'll get best results if you clamp the drill and have a perpendicular piece of wood with a bearing stuck in it to hold the end of the rod still. A clamped drill with a button that keeps it running when you take your finger off the trigger allows the whole deal to be hands free, allowing you to sand with 2 hands. You might search on the site for descriptions and pictures of 'cork lathes' rigged up, lots of folks have made them. You can even buy a ready made set up, apparently.

I haven't made 10-12" grips myself, but I would imagine there is a challenge due to length. You might want to glue up 5-6 inch pieces, sand to rough shape, ream to approximate diameter, then glue the component pieces together and finish sand to make the final grip.

Just dive right in--what's the worst that could happen (like, tearing up a grip from the inside, maybe???? wallbash.gif )

Gnossos
skeet3tx
If you use the threaded rod deal, wrap the rod first with teflon tape or the glued cork rings will stick to the rod. I have used the reversed wood rasp. Run it slowly. Ream and fit to make sure you are not taking too much out of the grip. Also, I have made a couple of reamers using the butt section of broken rods that I have scrounged from trash barrels. I'm cheap. If you make reamers, use cloth backed sandpaper or crocus cloth. First reamer I made had the paper backed stuff. It lasted 37 seconds! Peeled it off and used the heavier stuff.
OneKnocker
Thanks again for all the input. I think one of my many problems is I'm an engineer by trade, hence I have almost no imagination. You've given m3 some great ideas. I'm going to try the threaded rod chucked up in my drill.

What's the difference between Titebond III and FlexCoat epoxy for gluing cork rings?

Gnossos
QUOTE (OneKnocker @ Jun 22 2009, 05:11 PM) *
What's the difference between Titebond III and FlexCoat epoxy for gluing cork rings?

Personal preference. You'll hear recommendations for both. I use Titebond III, as it's a waterbased but waterproof wood glue I can find anywhere and I don't think it changes the sanding process. The titebond III is more runny than the yellow woodworker glues, so you have to pay a little more attention. Others get equally nice narrow glue lines and have no problems sanding with epoxy. Your choice.

Gnossos
rubberneck
i started out using flex coat road building epoxy to glue my rings and if you work quickly and clamp, you get very nice small basically invisible glue lines. However if you are working on a really long grip, or doing some inlays, the epoxy can start to go off on you and the glue lines will be more visible. I find latel that i like the tite bond 3, as i have been doing larger and more complicated grips. It gives you more working time and will still end up with nice glue lines. Honestly cant go wrong with either, just be aware of the properties of the material you are working with and plan accordingly
skeet3tx
Glue is a matter of preference. I use TBIII and like it. You can wipe off excess with a damp cloth when you clamp the rings together. Once I let it dry and it was miserable to sand off before you got down to the cork.
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