I have used the hexrod site for hex tapers but I am interested in building a quad. Are there any taper databases for quads that you all are aware of? Also, any secrets for building quads on my MHM? Thanks in advance.
Seabass
Full Version: Taper database for Quads?
To my knowledge, there are no taper databases specifically for quads. There are several quad tapers in Rod DNA and a few more floating around. You can also convert a hex taper to a quad, which is what many folks do. As for making the quads on your MHM, here are a couple of tips.
1. Be wary of the edges. When you make a quad, the enamel edges are paper thin. You need to be very careful not to damage the enamel edge, or you will end up with glue lines. This is not exclusive to the MHM, it is the case with all quads.
2. You need to be sure that your tip anvil is wide enough to support a quad tip strip, rather than a hex. If you have cut your tip anvil down very small it won't support the extra wide quad strip. The result is that the strip will roll over and you will ruin it. If you are going to make a number of quads, it is best to have a set of anvils dedicated to that purpose.
3. Use the MHM measuring block for your dial caliper. Really helps get accurate measurements and will protect the delicate edges of the strips when you are measuring.
Otherwise, it is just like making hexes.
Cheers,
Jay
P.S. Here is a quick pic of my first quad on the MHM in progress. I will post some more when it comes out of the dip tank (hopefully this week).
1. Be wary of the edges. When you make a quad, the enamel edges are paper thin. You need to be very careful not to damage the enamel edge, or you will end up with glue lines. This is not exclusive to the MHM, it is the case with all quads.
2. You need to be sure that your tip anvil is wide enough to support a quad tip strip, rather than a hex. If you have cut your tip anvil down very small it won't support the extra wide quad strip. The result is that the strip will roll over and you will ruin it. If you are going to make a number of quads, it is best to have a set of anvils dedicated to that purpose.
3. Use the MHM measuring block for your dial caliper. Really helps get accurate measurements and will protect the delicate edges of the strips when you are measuring.
Otherwise, it is just like making hexes.
Cheers,
Jay
P.S. Here is a quick pic of my first quad on the MHM in progress. I will post some more when it comes out of the dip tank (hopefully this week).
When I find a taper I want to try, I just convert it from hex to quad, study the graphs make a few adjustments and go. I always do both the .93 and the .95 conversions, and now, after having built several with both factors, I feel confident enough to make slight adjustments around those numbers. The .95 factor gives you the same physical mass as the hex rod, but because of the geometry, it will be a bit stiffer in action. The .93 factor gets closer to the action of the hex rod, but, having less mass, will have more flex, especially into the butt (maybe even into the grip).
One quad builder I talked to suggested using .93 in the tip, and then gradually increasing through the middle of the rod to .95 in the butt. I haven't tried that yet, but I may in the near future. Right now I've got too many other things to work on.
One quad builder I talked to suggested using .93 in the tip, and then gradually increasing through the middle of the rod to .95 in the butt. I haven't tried that yet, but I may in the near future. Right now I've got too many other things to work on.
There are a number of quad tapers available in RodDNA.
Jays tips are great. I'd also add you need to have straight strips with no twists. The wide strips don't like to self-adjust like narrower strips often do so you have to be more vigilant at the outset.
For making your own, I put together a simple Excel spreadsheet that converts Hex tapers to quads and pentas, specifically with the MHM in mind. It'll do straight conversions (i.e. .95) or variable (i.e. .95-.92). The conversion factors are user definable but include Area, MOI and a common variable range. It'll also compensate for the extra 1.5 degrees of the MHM cutters.
You can download the Morgan Hand Mill Taper Converter here:
http://www.farnorthrodsmiths.com/downloads.htm
Its pretty easy to use. Just put the hex taper data into the Conversions sheet, then go to Report and change any of the yellow fields (pull down menus) to set the parameters. The taper data changes real-time. To change the base parameters, go to the Conversions page and modify any of the data in the yellow fields.
Jays tips are great. I'd also add you need to have straight strips with no twists. The wide strips don't like to self-adjust like narrower strips often do so you have to be more vigilant at the outset.
For making your own, I put together a simple Excel spreadsheet that converts Hex tapers to quads and pentas, specifically with the MHM in mind. It'll do straight conversions (i.e. .95) or variable (i.e. .95-.92). The conversion factors are user definable but include Area, MOI and a common variable range. It'll also compensate for the extra 1.5 degrees of the MHM cutters.
You can download the Morgan Hand Mill Taper Converter here:
http://www.farnorthrodsmiths.com/downloads.htm
Its pretty easy to use. Just put the hex taper data into the Conversions sheet, then go to Report and change any of the yellow fields (pull down menus) to set the parameters. The taper data changes real-time. To change the base parameters, go to the Conversions page and modify any of the data in the yellow fields.
QUOTE (Carlin @ Jun 9 2009, 01:49 PM) 
There are a number of quad tapers available in RodDNA.
Jays tips are great. I'd also add you need to have straight strips with no twists. The wide strips don't like to self-adjust like narrower strips often do so you have to be more vigilant at the outset.
For making your own, I put together a simple Excel spreadsheet that converts Hex tapers to quads and pentas, specifically with the MHM in mind. It'll do straight conversions (i.e. .95) or variable (i.e. .95-.92). The conversion factors are user definable but include Area, MOI and a common variable range. It'll also compensate for the extra 1.5 degrees of the MHM cutters.
You can download the Morgan Hand Mill Taper Converter here:
http://www.farnorthrodsmiths.com/downloads.htm
Its pretty easy to use. Just put the hex taper data into the Conversions sheet, then go to Report and change any of the yellow fields (pull down menus) to set the parameters. The taper data changes real-time. To change the base parameters, go to the Conversions page and modify any of the data in the yellow fields.
Jays tips are great. I'd also add you need to have straight strips with no twists. The wide strips don't like to self-adjust like narrower strips often do so you have to be more vigilant at the outset.
For making your own, I put together a simple Excel spreadsheet that converts Hex tapers to quads and pentas, specifically with the MHM in mind. It'll do straight conversions (i.e. .95) or variable (i.e. .95-.92). The conversion factors are user definable but include Area, MOI and a common variable range. It'll also compensate for the extra 1.5 degrees of the MHM cutters.
You can download the Morgan Hand Mill Taper Converter here:
http://www.farnorthrodsmiths.com/downloads.htm
Its pretty easy to use. Just put the hex taper data into the Conversions sheet, then go to Report and change any of the yellow fields (pull down menus) to set the parameters. The taper data changes real-time. To change the base parameters, go to the Conversions page and modify any of the data in the yellow fields.
Thanks for the help guys, Chris, this is a very helpful program. I will be looking at this going forward while building my quads. I also went ahead and downloaded the guide spacing guide which will be very helpful.
Thanks again,
Seabass14
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