I plan on laying down a few coats of U-40 Prema Gloss to my dull Grey "Matte" finish blank to get a "Glossy" finish rather than the "Matted" finish it has now. Im going to do this BEFORE I start wrapping guides. I was wondering if This stuff "Perma Gloss" can be also used as a "finish" over my guide wraps and Butt wraps instead of Epoxy?? After wrapping my guides, I was planning to use 2 coats of "Flex Coat light Epoxy" on my guide wraps, Decorative Butt wraps, a small feather inlay, and over my inscription and a small "decal". But after reading a lot on here about Perma Gloss, I was wondering if I even need to use Epoxy on my guide wraps?? Or if I can just use multiple coats of the Perma Gloss?? I am going to use "Metallic" size A thread, without any Color Preserver if that makes any differance??? Any advice for the New Kid on the block?? THANKS ALL!!!

To get the same build up as flex coat lite.....You'd need about 4 coats of permagloss. Seeing as your using met thread and it does not require color preserver, then I would put on one coat of permagloss and go over it with a coat of flexcoat over it. This would be the strongest way to coat threads, and much stronger than flex coat over CP.

THANKS SAGA!!,
I just put on my first coat of Perma Gloss, went on nice. Gonna put one more coat on in an hour or so. Then tommorrow im gonna start wrapping guides. One more question, will Perma Gloss "lift/erase" my inscription I wanna do with a Bic- Sharpie marker, that I wanna do between coats? THANKS

I would put a coat of CP over any decal and let dry overnight before applying PG. It contains some pretty hot solvents. A lot of people use it for thread wraps. Keep in mind that you won't get that high gloss "depth look with PG and it will take many coats. The end finish is more like an egg shell look

You won't get that shiny, deep look that sets of a fancy butt wrap.

OKAY Y'ALL,
THANKS for the help!!!!!! I have 3 coats of Permegolss on my blank.But It feels Rough to me?, Im gonna sand it with some 600 or 1000 grit, I "used" to work in an autobody "Shop" and old habits die hard!!! Uhm if it feels rough, well its NOT ready for paint, So SAND it??? The U-40 Permagloss finish is GREAT!! But after 3 coats in 3 Hours, well it does need Sanding!!!!! I feel??? After sanding and getting it "smooth:, Illl cover it with a coat or 2 of Flexcoat Lite. Epoxy!!!!
OOkay, I am just following advise, Resived from the GREAT Memebers of this forumn?? "Obviousley" this is my first "Rod Build"!! But Im happy so far with the info ive recieved on here!! And Thanks ALL, For the info!!!!, Brian

The trick with that permagloss ona rod blank is to apply it pretty liberally from tip to butt, not working it much. The best way I have seen to apply it to a blank is to get some rubber gloves. Do a test to make sure they don't get eaten away by the hot solvents otherwise try it with your bare hand and just find out what solvent best cleans permagloss up and have it at hand.. This method takes two ppl and a ladder. The trick is to make a circle with your gloved hand between your thumb and forefinger and hold the blank just below the tip, only exposing where the the tip top would cover the blank. Pour some permagloss into the circle your thumb and forefinger makes and them have some one up on a latter reaching downslowly pull the blank up through your encircling fingers. Some may drip, but this coats about as evenly as you can get. You might have to have the permagloss bottle at the ready to add more as you go, so that your always drawing the blank up through a puddle of permagloss. You concentrate on the pouring , the other guy concentrates on the slow even pulling up of the blank. As for permagloss and decals or lettering, do a test sample to see if it is going to mess with your personalizations.