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Rod Building > General Rod Building > Wraps and Finishing
Whirnot
A while back there was some discussion about single turn trim wraps, and I promised to show how I did them. As with anything in Rod building there are probably numerous ways to accomplish this but this is the only way I figured out how to do it. The blank is a scrap so it's a little ugly.

But first a note.

THIS TUTORIAL IS THE PROPERTY OF RED FEATHER FLY RODS AND IS FOR THE EXCLUSIVE USE OF MEMBERS OF RODBUILDINGFORUM.COM. IT IS NOT TO BE REPRODUCED OR PUBLISHED WITHOUT THE CONSENT OF THE AUTHOR.

First wrap a length of trim thread around the blank with the intersection just above where you want the trim to be. Tape it in place. Make sure both tag ends are at the same angle below the intersection so if they show under the main wrap they look equal.

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Then start your main wrap, Starting just below the intersection, making about 5 turns, trim the main tag, make another wrap and tape the main thread in place.
Then Place a toothpick between the "legs" and start drawing the trim down with one tag of the trim.

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As you get close remove the toothpick and pack the trim in as you go.

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After snugging the trim up tight, cut both tag ends

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Continue the main wraps as usual.

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chuckster
Thanks for the tip. On my first build I didn't put trim wraps because I had no idea how. I'm about to start my second build and will give it a try. Thanks again
Chuckster
Whirnot
OK, Now we will try it without tag ends. First finish your main wrap and cut a piece of trim thread about 3 inches long or so, whatever is easy to handle. Dip the nd of the trim wrap in super glue and lay into place, hold for a second with metal object if necessary.

user posted image

Then wrap the trim around the blank, tight against the main, and with a toothpick put a little bit of superglue on the trim wrap about 80 percent of the way around, then lay the trim wrap in to set the glue.

user posted image

Cut the trim thread to length, put a dab of glue on the end, and lay it into place.
Interestingly enough while I was taking these photos I found that a drop of super glue, placed on my varnished wrapping stand stayed liquid for more than enough time to do this wrap, probably several.

user posted image


After finishing there is no evidence of the joint

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OH OH, I just discovered something else!
So what happens if you then remove the main wrap, and coat the single trim wrap? Here is after one coat, I am assuming after a second light coat, the coating would be a little more rounded.

user posted image

Kind of gets the creative juices flowing huh? shocking.gif

Interesting side bar, to coat this wrap I mixed one tenth of one cc of Threadmaster. try that with other coatings!
chuckster
Oop's posted too soon! This way looks even easier. thumbsup.gif
Chuckster
Whirnot
Actually most people do multiple turn trim wraps, looks good and much easier. These are kind of a special application. check this out for a good method of doing trims: http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=4637
Gary Madore
QUOTE (Whirnot @ Aug 20 2006, 04:56 PM)
Interestingly enough while I was taking these photos I found that a drop of super glue, placed on my varnished wrapping stand stayed liquid for more than enough time to do this wrap, probably several.

(In my best "Cliff Clavin" voice) .... It's a little known fact that cyanoacrylate (CA) glues were supposed to be a way to quickly close wounds.... Liquid sutures, if you will.

They cure (actually "polymerize") on contact with water and so, when not exposed to moisture, will stay liquid. I would guess that your work area is enjoying low humidity and that's why your Krazy Glue didn't instantly become a solidified acrylic resin.

As an aside, this is why it doesn't usually work when you try to stick pieces of a broken teacup back together with CA: They're too dry.... Try misting one side with water and it'll make all the difference in the world.

Cheers!

Gary

P.S. Thanks for the 'how-to' Bill! I'm gonna try that first method on my next build thumbsup.gif
Whirnot
well that explains that. You sure are a smart feller! shocking.gif

Yep we have very low humidity. usually 10 to 15%. also explains why everything I ever glued with CA fell apart! wallbash.gif
Gary Madore
QUOTE (Whirnot @ Aug 20 2006, 06:30 PM)
You sure are a smart feller! shocking.gif

Nah, just extremely well-read, supremely educated. immensely worldly and incredibly handsome.

Oh, and modest too.... hysterical.gif

Here's another CA tid-bit:

Acids slow down the cure rate, while alcohols speed it up ("kicker" is usually just a weak alcohol (I said WEAK, so don't get any strange ideas, Steve!))

BUT, one of the best "kickers" is plain old baking soda. thumbsup.gif

Also, CA cures so fast that it doesn't raise grain, so it makes a great wood finish (but a prohibitively expensive one for all but the smallest projects (such as (ahem) reel seats) thumbsup.gif

Well, back to my books....

Cheers!

Gary ("Clavin")
Dave
Gary,

Sometime back, I got what I thought was a bright idea and tried exactly what you described using super glue to bond the trim wrap. However, to my surprise the super glue apparently reacted with the coloring in the thread and turned it black on contact. Are you using a particular type of super glue? Have you ever had the problem with it turning the thread black?

Thanks
Dave
Whirnot
This was plain Loctite super glue. I am careful to make sure the glue is only on the trim and the blank. as you can see, I easily removed the main wrap.
Whirnot
Here is a shot of a rod I built a few years ago using the first method: as you can see, without cp the tag ends do show but if they are even I don't think they are objectionable:

user posted image

Looking Back

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I would now make sure they are on the guide side or the opposite side from the label.

Hopefully, I would not have wavy thread coating either.... wallbash.gif wallbash.gif
Carlin
Awesome post Bill!! Thanks for the tips.

I really like the V shape effect that you get with the non-CP wrap. thumbup.gif
MSUICEMAN
i've been screwing around with this, and decided that the easiest way to get it cinched down tight and all that jazz is to put a loop of heavier thread around the X of the trim band thread, then when you pull tight it will tighten to the point of trying to drag the loop under the main wrap. then you can really get the single turn tight and just pull the loop out and ouilah (sp?)!
Bakdrft2007
Yes,
I too had the CA trun the thread a dark color. So I tried CP on it and it still turned dark, and the CA really doesnt work as well now....
Whirnot
Using CA I am very careful to use a very minute amount. A toothpick is too much, I sharpen the toothpick and dip it in the CA.

If there is much visible on the end of the toothpick I will touch it to my wrap stand first to wick some away.
Ideally I don't touch the thread at all, but I have done this on at least 7 or 8 rods with no issues.
drgoretex
QUOTE(Dave @ Aug 20 2006, 09:45 PM) [snapback]78170[/snapback]

Gary,

Sometime back, I got what I thought was a bright idea and tried exactly what you described using super glue to bond the trim wrap. However, to my surprise the super glue apparently reacted with the coloring in the thread and turned it black on contact. Are you using a particular type of super glue? Have you ever had the problem with it turning the thread black?

Thanks
Dave



That's odd...I've tried Crazy Glue in this situation on plain Gudebrod nylon thread, both red and yellow, with no significant change in colour.

Ken
goobie
QUOTE(MSUICEMAN @ Jan 29 2007, 12:17 AM) [snapback]88478[/snapback]

i've been screwing around with this, and decided that the easiest way to get it cinched down tight and all that jazz is to put a loop of heavier thread around the X of the trim band thread, then when you pull tight it will tighten to the point of trying to drag the loop under the main wrap. then you can really get the single turn tight and just pull the loop out and ouilah (sp?)!





voila?

I just tie a single overhand knot wrap over the 2 tags and pull after a few turns.. You don't need a toothpick or the extra loop of thread to keep the single turn splitting apart or slipping under the wraps. Best of all, you only need 2 hands. You can basically pull the tags as hard as you want...even until they snap off and the single turn won't pull under becasue that little overlap at the overhand knot is just thick enough to keep it from sliding under the wraps. The end result is indistinguishable you can't see any height or thickness difference around the turn from the knot.
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