Posted 22 June 2010 - 08:36 PM
I recieved my first batch of ProKote. It comes bottled with yorker caps on them, and it also comes with 3cc syringes. Both of which are good. If you cut them correctly, you can easily use the syringes with the yorker caps for a no mess mix of a 6cc total or less batch, but the yorker caps make it very nice for larger batches too.
Mixing- The directions do not suggest heating the bottles, so I did not. The mixing took about 4 minutes, and there were a ton of bubbles produced during the mixing process. After pouring it out onto foil and letting it rest for about 3 minutes, the bubbles were gone for the most part. One exhale took care of the rest.
Applying- The viscocity really is a medium as advertised. It went on quite easy with nothing unpredictable occurring. The pot-life seems to be much longer than I am used to. I did not have to rush at all, and that was on a 7ft Mag Bass rod, with two label boxes. The viscocity of the finish hardly changed at all from beginning to end.
Here is my first concern (or dissapointment). I realize that there is a trade-off normally with extended pot-life, and it is the increased drying time. So far, the rod has been turning for 2.5 hours, and by checking my left-over mixture, I can tell it is not even close to ready to stop turing. I normally turn my normal finish for 3 hours to be safe, but by the looks of things right now, this is not going to be enough. Also, in the instructions it says to wait 24 HOURS between coats!!! 24 HOURS!? I read it twice, because I am used to having to apply the 2nd coat BEFORE 24 hours, but the instructions clearly state that you need to wait at least this long. I will make a judgement call in the morning based on my left-over finish.
I will write more when I know more. Hope this will answer any questions some of you may be having.
Posted 23 June 2010 - 08:11 AM
I am not being negative about ProKote, just giving my fair assesment so far.
Posted 23 June 2010 - 10:10 AM
Posted 23 June 2010 - 01:09 PM
I received a catalogue with that as one of the items highlighted. Thanks. Will keep watching for more info.
I'm so cheap, I stay after the wedding to pick up the rice!
Posted 23 June 2010 - 09:38 PM
I placed my decals about 16 hours after the initial coat had been applied. I let those sit and dry all day and I just finished applying my second coat. The finish did harden to the point where I could not leave a fingernail imprint in under 24 hours. The second coat went on even better than the first. I made a few adjustments. I allowed the finish to set a little longer before applying the second coat. I stated earlier that it went on like a medium build, I would like to retract that, b/c it is closer to going on as a light build if you do not let it set up a little first. Which is a good thing if you like doing 2 coats like I do. So, b/c the pot life is so long, it can behave like a lite build and a medium build. Also, the leveling is superb. My second coat was a heavier coat, and the finish behaved very well. I will know more in the morning. As far as turning time, I think 5 hours will be appropriate in a room around 72 degrees. I checked with Mudhole and they said you can add the second coat before 24 hours as long as the first coat has lost its tackiness. Overall, aside from the time to set-up (but as stated earlier, that is the trade-off for extended pot-life), I am pretty pleased with the product. One note I forgot to mention is that it does give off a bit more fumes than I am used to with TM and FC. Either I grew used to it, or it dissipates shortly after the initial mixing. One other positive. I hardly noticed any bubbles that I had to address. I will complete my review tomorrow. Thanks for reading.
Posted 24 June 2010 - 06:32 PM
This rod is in the books as is my first experience with ProKote finish. I will be using it again. The rod finish turned out very well. I cannot say that it is leaps and bounds better than TM, but I do personally like it better than FC and AmTak's finish. The leveling and clarity are very good. Unfortunately this is not my rod, so I will not be able to evaluate it long-term. I do have a personal build scheduled/planned in a month or so, so I will be able to evaluate the long-term characterisics better then.
Very long pot life, and this viscocity can be altered with a little waiting, and you still have plenty of time to work with the finish even after it has thickenend up. Clarity is equally good, and thread penetration is very good early. I cannot comment how well it would penetrate after waiting, since my first coat was done with only a few minutes of rest given to the finish just to release bubbles after mixing. There was a signigicant reduction in bubble production during application. They were easily taken care of with a breath and heat was not necessary. Another benefit to the extended potlife/added curing time, is it allowed me to make small corrections up to 1.5 hours after application. Which brings us to the cure time... it is long. If you are in a rush, go with your TM hb or something similar, but if you have the time it is a very very good finish. I was a bit skeptical too, but i wanted to give it a shot. I love trying new products. If you have any questions, please feel free to PM or ask here. Thanks for reading. I will post the rod in the showcase section tomorrow.
Posted 01 August 2010 - 07:43 PM
Posted 23 August 2010 - 11:38 AM
I don't have a problem with the extended curing time. I usually wait 24 hrs between coats, and at least two days after the final coat before running a line through. I had planned on doing three coats and scheduled the time to do it so I wasn't put out.
However, I had one odd thing happen. Nearly all of the thread wraps at the guides footballed on me. The closer to the rod tip and thinner the blank, the more pronounced the footballing is. For the the first coat I tried to use as little as possible, just enough to cover the wraps. The morning after the first application, I noticed that the ends of the wraps were exposed above the surface of the epoxy. I figured I didn't apply it evenly, so I sanded a little and put on the second coat, trying to level as best I could. The 2nd morning, same thing - the epoxy footballed towards the middle of the wraps and pulled back from the edges. A little sanding and a very careful 3rd coat - making sure that all the exposed thread was covered the the finish was all even and level. Final morning, same thing again - more footballing.
Right off the bat, I'm not gonna blame PK for this. It acts a little different than TML (but it is still just epoxy). Some things that come to mind: I may not be using the right application techniques for this product (or the best techniques in general); I may be getting a slight vibration in my turning set-up causing the epoxy to pool; the natural curve of the rod may be causing the epoxy to pool (I'm using a Pac-Bay turner and single support stand I got f/ Mud Hole). I've had similar problems w/ TM before, and not so much w/ TML. I'm wondering if I got more supports that held the rod more firmly and stably that I may avoid the footballing in the future.
Anyway, very good stuff - can't say that's it's any better or worse than TML. I like it a lot, but may use TML in the future. I ended up with a higher build than I like, but that is prolly more me than the product.
Posted 30 April 2016 - 04:09 AM
Posted 01 May 2016 - 12:09 AM
Posted 03 May 2016 - 12:33 AM
I have been told and also read that rod building epoxies do not have a shelf life. They will all change colors whether opened or not but this I believe does not effect the properties. It's left to us as builders to determine when we should stop using rod building epoxy finishes. I date my bottles and usually stop at 18 months. The finish is the least expensive part of building so don't let the cheap ruin the expensive..!!
I have used Pro-Kote, the original Med Viscosity, and found the pot life is great and the releasing of bubbles is great also but this comes with a price - a long cure time.. But you also get a very flexible finish, when it does finally cure. I did a test early with Pro-Kote after it hit the market and found that even four months after curing, I could still depress it with a fingernail, leave a mark and watch it disappear before my eyes. I may have used it for a complete rod early on but have not done so since.
However I have used Pro-Kote Original in a blend with Threadmaster Hi-Build with excellent results---the best of both worlds. Extended cure time, excellent bubble release along with excellent leveling qualities and a good and solid 18 to 24 hour cure time at normal room temperatures. I could second coat in 6-8 hours if I applied the finish early in the morning on weekends. Plus it has a tough finish when cured to the normal final curing times established by the manufacturer.
Pro-Kote original is not good for underwraps because it cures too long and remains too soft---Overwrapping threads can't slide across it when packing. It is also too soft for heavy use rods such as those used in heavy line weight offshore fishing even after many weeks of curing. I have read that the finish is too soft to withstand the abuse. Other epoxies are better for the heavier builds.
Now, lets look at the Pro-Kote High Build......I have just minimal use with this new stuff, testing it over decals, but so far I see it has some great potential. I only use High Build epoxies so I am used to the short pot life and I mix slowly to prevent massive amounts of bubbles and one drop of Acetone cures those. And if I need a thinner finish, within reason, I use Sherwin-Williams #54 Reducer which is designed for epoxy finishes....... or epoxy finishes as we know them.
My $.02749 cents worth....
Keep 'em turnin'
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