Posted 10 January 2007 - 01:56 PM
What I did was very simple. First I planed, taped and then opened up the butt and mid section of the rod, laid them flat on the bench, then marked off the areas that I wanted to scallop in roughly 1" increments, leaving an inch or two before the ferrule station un-hollowed, as well as the area directly under the 2" swell (swelled butt rod) and a bit more space between a few of the stations to adjust for more consistent flexing.
I clamped the 6 strips to the bench and using a 1 1/2" drum sander mounted in my hand drill, and simply sanded down the section until I estimated the wall section to be about .070" (a bit thicker under the butt as I had to turn it down - see below).
After checking the wall thickness and sanding a bit more, I continued on to the next area. I was surprised at how easy it was to approximate the dimensions using an 80 grit wheel. When you get down into the real dense power fibers near the outside of the strips, the sanding wheel works very slowly and hardly removes any material at all. I'd estimate it took me a bit less than 10 minutes to scallop each rod section (only the butt and mid).
You can see the scalloping on the two laid out sections on the top of the photo:
Here is a shot of the butt section before being turned down:
Notice the smaller hollow area inside from where I sanded down the apexes a little more than normal to leave it hollow, yet preserve the scalloping.
One thing to mention is that after sanding there were lots of small fuzzies along the scalloped areas. To remove those I took an old piece of cork and simply rubbed it back and forth. This cleaned up all the fuzzies and the blank glued up without any gaps or glue lines.
When I glued up, using URAC, I took a foam brush and wiped out any excess glue from the scallops before I bound the section.
I do want to mention that the results weren't perfect as the drum sander wanted to move around a little while spinning, but after the first few I got the hang of how to hold it so the results got better and more consistent as I progressed. I wouldn't expect to get perfectly repeatable results using this method, but from the test casting in the yard yesterday (in -20F weather! ) it was worth the effort and definitely made a noticeable difference in weight and the rod's 'snappiness'. And it was easy!
Posted 10 January 2007 - 04:31 PM
Posted 10 January 2007 - 05:24 PM
I use a dremel on one strip at the time in a fixture, but it isnīt even close to how fast you managed to get your work done.
Posted 10 January 2007 - 06:40 PM
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Ken Paterson, Streetsville, Ontario
Posted 10 January 2007 - 06:48 PM
Posted 11 January 2007 - 10:22 PM
|QUOTE (Carlin @ Jan 10 2007, 07:48 PM)|
|It is tough to say for sure Ken as I haven't made this exact taper before, but if I had to make the call comparing it the other similar tapers I've done, I'd say no, it doesn't feel softer or slower in action, just a little crisper or more responsive. That could've just been the cold though.|
From a personal standpoint from doing much casting, rods like Dave Norlings hollowbuilts and the one Jim Reams hollowbuilt I have cast, I'll go down as saying that the hollowbuilding certainly makes a rod a bit crisper-feeling when you cast her, compared to the standard build.
Just my observations from only a few rods......
Jeremy......who's very interested in what yer doin'!!
Posted 27 February 2008 - 10:40 AM
Posted 27 February 2008 - 10:34 PM
And gmreeves, you can add a little to the taper to compensate for reduced stiffness. I think I shared with some of you the amounts I add for a coupla rods I make. Usually it's 1% - 1.5% to get similar stiffness. And if you add solid dams every few inches and at the ends, then adding the extra isn't really necessary, imho.
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Posted 28 February 2008 - 01:11 PM
I decided to make an 8 ft 9 in steel head special (F. E. Thomas), 3 piece. I decided to not to leave any "dams" in place but rely on the glued edges to maintain the integrety of the rod sections. I used my jig for making hollow bamboo ferrules to remove the apex leaving .080 in wall thickness. The only part where I left the apex in place was on the tip of the butt and mid sections. Gluing up was no problem. I am now in the process of making up the bamboo ferrules. I plan to use intermediate wraps to re-inforce the sections.
A friend of mine found that his steel head rods were splitting longitudinally on hollow rods that he had fluted.
The test is in the tasting so I will see how the rod holds up when I take it out in March.
Posted 02 March 2008 - 10:36 AM
Brass strips of various thickness are usually available in most hardware stores, use one of the correct thickness as a shim on either side of your strips and just sand down to it. I have a piece of plexiglass with one strip .070 glued to it and the other I just tape down along with the opened section so I can stay tight to both sides., the .070 is the wall thickness I want. I may look for some thinner stuff next time I think of it to take tips down a bit thinner.
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