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Help me complete my wood lathe setup


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#1 parabellum

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 12:10 PM

Hi all

I drove myself near insane digging through the old forum posts trying to figure out what I need to complete my set up, but I don't want to make an expensive mistake so I'm giving up and posting a 1000th lathe question post.

Yesterday I finally picked up a Harbor Freight CM wood lathe that many here recommended as a decent lathe for what I need it for.(btw for anyone interested these are currently on sale for $189 and there is a 20% coupon out there bringing it down to $150ish which I think is a pretty decent deal)
The specs say this thing has:
- Spindle thread: 1"-8
- Headstock Taper: MT2
- Tailstock Taper : MT1

I also picked up a cheap tool kit ( I didnít see the recommended ďred handleĒ ones)
And a 1/2" MT2 Mini-Lathe Drill Chuck


Here is what I want to do with this lathe:

- Cork handle turning
- Reel seat insert turning
- Center drilling of wood blanks
- All ferrule related work for bamboo rods (rod end prepping, ferrule fitting etc)

Iíve gathered so far I need a self centering 4 jaw chuck that can be set with one hand and that can both grab a rod and a square wood blank but I am getting lost in all the possibilities and various adapters. Iíd like to spend under 100 bucks if possible. I see a several recommendations floating around here (nova, woodcraft, etc) but I always have a feeling Iím missing an important piece.

So, keeping in mind what I have so far, and what I want to do could you please tell me exactly what I need if I wanted to do all those things tomorrow? Please donít assume I have anything other then what I listed above. (Chuck, chuck adapters, drill bit, will this drill chuck I got even fit my lathe, what else?)

Thank you!


#2 Goduster

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 12:39 PM

It will fit the headstock end, but with what you have so far, you will not be able to perform any of the tasks you have mentioned.
You will need to get some mandrells, an MT1 drill chuck for the tailstock, some sort of chuck for the headstock end that will have an open center for boring. You will probably have 2 to 3 times what you paid for the lathe in tooling when you get finished. You should get a face shield, possibly a respirator, and gloves.

ABOVE ALL TRY NOT TO USE ALL-THREAD FOR A MANDRELL, even though some do it your are looking for trouble.

Ron Weber
Southwest Custom Rods

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http://www.southwest...l-seat-hardware

 

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#3 parabellum

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 12:46 PM

From previous reading I've gathered I need

1) A 4 jaw self centering chuck with some kind of a setup to be able to grab a square wood blank
2) A mandrel? Will this work? http://www.pennstate...e/PKMSMAN2.html
3) Various safety equipment
4) If that drill chuck won't work, then I need a new one dammit... Would this one work?


Any suggestions for a chuck that will do all that from #1 ?

#4 Rod O Rama

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 12:56 PM

If your lathe has a thru hole in the headstock then you should get a 3 jaw chuck. If it doesn't have a thru hole and it doesn't look like it does, from the picture, then you probably won't be cutting ferrule stations with it. At least not accurately. If you are going to be chucking up any traditional Hex Bamboo a 4 jaw just doesn't play nice with the 6 sides.
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#5 Goduster

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 01:07 PM

That will work if you want to turn pen blanks. If you have a live center in the tailstock end then you could could use your existing chuck in the headstock to use the mandrells for turning corkBut you still need some sort of chuck for the thru drilling of the inserts.
These are the mandrells I use, but Lynn does not sell them anymore, and you have to purchase them from one of the rod building suppliers, also here is what I use for drilling my inserts at the present time. It comes from Penn State Industries
http://www.backlashtools.com/tools.htm


Ron Weber
Southwest Custom Rods

www.southwestcustomrods.com


Your Lemke reel seat dealer
http://www.southwest...l-seat-hardware

 

Authorized  Snake Brand guide dealer


#6 parabellum

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 01:20 PM

QUOTE (Rod O Rama @ Oct 30 2012, 12:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If your lathe has a thru hole in the headstock then you should get a 3 jaw chuck. If it doesn't have a thru hole and it doesn't look like it does, from the picture, then you probably won't be cutting ferrule stations with it. At least not accurately. If you are going to be chucking up any traditional Hex Bamboo a 4 jaw just doesn't play nice with the 6 sides.


Pretty sure there is a hole through the headstock. Hmmm 3 jaws you say? Any suggestions on which one?

#7 parabellum

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 01:25 PM

QUOTE (Goduster @ Oct 30 2012, 01:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That will work if you want to turn pen blanks. If you have a live center in the tailstock end then you could could use your existing chuck in the headstock to use the mandrells for turning corkBut you still need some sort of chuck for the thru drilling of the inserts.
These are the mandrells I use, but Lynn does not sell them anymore, and you have to purchase them from one of the rod building suppliers, also here is what I use for drilling my inserts at the present time. It comes from Penn State Industries
http://www.backlashtools.com/tools.htm




I was hoping there would be a chuck that could do both like one I saw somewhere where you could reverse the jaws to grab square objects.

Also saw somewhere else on the board someone fashioned up a couple L brackets for I think a Nova g3 that did the trick. If I end up with a chuck like that I might give that a try too

#8 kbproctor

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 01:45 PM

First, that lathe has an MT2 tailstock. At least all of them I have seen do.

It does have a thru hole in the headstock that will accomodate most bamboo rod sections, vacuum chucks, and other accessories.

That little lathe has a lot of bang for the buck in it.

You can spend a boatload of money on chucks and the like. Keep in mind that you will use this thing for much more than rod building as time goes on. Like many other aspects of the craft, everyone will have their favorite way to do things but it is by no means the only way to do things.

Those cheap chisels will certainly teach you how to sharpen. Upgrade when you can.

I would start with a good 4 jaw scroll chuck that you can fit various jaws to including a set of pin jaws. I would add a nice pen mandrel to that. You can get a lot of work done with those two and make a lot of accessories like bushings as well. Add to your tools as the need arises and as you get a better idea of what will work for you.


Kevin

Colorado Custom Fly Rods, Ltd.

If your parents never had kids, chances are you won't either....

#9 parabellum

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 01:57 PM

Thanks Kevin. I was just about to send you a PM as I saw you comment on this lathe before and mentioned the tailstock was MT2. Perhaps the specs on the HF website are just misspelled.


Can you recommend a decently priced "get the job done" combo of the chuck, jaws and pen mandrel

#10 Gnossos

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 11:40 PM

I'd like to add to what Kevin has mentioned about the turning tools. They're tool steel and you can ruin them in an instant if you let them heat up when you sharpen. If the edge turns blue, they're toast. Keep a can of water beside the grinder (a slow or half speed grinder if at all possible) and dip the tool in the water as soon as it gets warm while sharpening. Almost all turning tools sold today are High Speed Steel which are much more forgiving. When you are ready to trade up, there are inexpensive sets available at Penn State (whose service leaves a great deal to be desired) and some other places. Craftsupplies and Packard are two highly regarded suppliers of woodturning supplies who have good service.

If you pull out your live center from the tail stock, it will probably say if it's MT1 or MT2. As mentioned, you put the drill chuck in the tail stock for drilling. If it turns out you have the wrong size, maybe Harbor Freight would trade you for the right size.

Rhossack is the one who made some pen blank holding jaws for his regular scroll chuck. Any of the pen mandrels will work for reel seats and grips, though a larger diameter and therefore stiffer mandrel is probably a little better.

Be safe, wear protection.

#11 parabellum

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 12:34 AM

Thanks gnossos. I plan on trying to sharpen those tools manually so overheating shouldn't be a risk. I'll eventually upgrade for sure.

I think I have this narrowed down somewhat.

Mandrel + mandrel saver kit from HERE
Inletting tool from HERE
Either a pen blank holder jig from a few posts above or a home built one

The chuck choices seem to fall to a reconditioned Nova G3 plus 1" by 8 tpi adapter OR a Woodriver 4 jaw chuck


Whats still completely hazy is which pin jaws I need to get?

Any thoughts?

#12 John T.

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 05:25 AM

Woodcraft, Woodcraft, has a good selection of turning stuff, also. We had a store in Chattanooga but it closed due to opening during a bad economy. You can order through their website. Also, I recommend a website for woodturners, Woodturner, as a great source for the craft. Turning can be expensive (but it's fun). You can have more in the accessories than the cost of the lathe. Good turning!

John T.

 

 

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#13 Gnossos

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 09:40 AM

QUOTE (parabellum @ Nov 1 2012, 11:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The chuck choices seem to fall to a reconditioned Nova G3 plus 1" by 8 tpi adapter OR a Woodriver 4 jaw chuck
Whats still completely hazy is which pin jaws I need to get?

Don't forget the cost of shipping when making purchases, it can add up.
Once you pick your chuck, you will get jaws that fit that particular chuck. I hate to complicate things further, but Grizzly offers a serviceable 4 jaw chuck (#H6265) which has inexpensive pin jaws you can add. (I use the nova line of chucks, but recognize that other products also get the job done. A chuck from one of the Big 3 (Nova, Oneway, Vicmarc) will last a lifetime and do almost any woodturning task you want; inexpensive chucks can serve you well if you don't go beyond rod building and pens, and will save you money. It's a dilemma.)

#14 Perchjerker

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 11:53 AM

You can make your own mandrels from steel rod stock available at most all hardware stores. It helps to have a set of 'centering bits' so you can drill a concave in the outer ends of the rods to give a perfect fit on a live center. These bits are designed just for such boring, are relatively inexpensive, and are available from every industrial machine supply company. I got mine from REX. They come in sets of 5 different sizes.

I have been turning wood for close to 20 years, and reel seat inserts for close to 15. I have had, and used, a 3-jaw self-centering k since day one with absolutely no problems with it. I have turned cork grips on bamboo rods using it. I also have 2 Nova Chucks, which have been quite valuable accessories ( I have two because I got tired of constantly changing from one jaw size to the other. Finally caught them on sale and bought the second one. Have NEVER looked back!

You can chuck up square stock and turn it round and then bore it, or you can bore it and put the square stock on a mandrel for turning to round. They make a lot of what you will want to do quite easy.

Welcome to the 'habit'.

#15 parabellum

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 03:24 PM

Ok lets see if we can narrow this down a little bit.

IF I go with a refurbed Nova G3 chuck will THIS pin jaw do the job? I can't quite tell what the internal diameter is so i cant tell if it can grip for example a tip section of a rod to prep it for a ferule?

Similarly if i go with a grizzly chuck H6265 will THIS set of pin jaws work for me?

I am pretty certain these will only get used for rod making purposes.


Thanks everyone for the advice so far and for baring with my dumb questions, I feel like we're almost there smile.gif clapping.gif



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