I have read on the Rodmakers list about others using toggle clamps in the past, but I just got around to trying it out. Should have done it sooner. Since I use a two handed bench plane this clamp makes flipping the strip from one side to the other a 2 second deal.
I got it from www.woodcraft.com. It's only $15.00. It's the largest size.
I have been experimenting with bamboo ferrules, and Iíve been finding that as weak as a bamboo ferrule would appear to be compared to a nickel silver ferrule, it doesnít break. At this point Iím wondering how thin I can make the wall of a bamboo ferrule before it does break or split.
I am in the process of making a bamboo ferrule with 1/32 (.031 in.) wall thickness. It could be that the longitudinal fibers from the bamboo combined with the cross fibers from thread wrapped around in a matrix of epoxy will be all the strength needed for a ferrule. If the 1/32nd ferrule doesnít break the next step is to make and test a bamboo ferrule with a 1/64th (.016 in.) wall thickness to see if that breaks. I think what is happening is the ferrule has a greater diameter than the rod at that point, and just like in car and bicycle frames, tubing with a greater diameter can be made with a thinner wall and still have the same strength. The key is to keep the tube (ferrule) from collapsing when it is bent. That should not happen since the male side is inside the female side, filling it up and keeping it from collapsing.
This brings me to wonder how much strength is really necessary for a ferrule. Ferrules are usually made with very strong materials, nickel silver, duronze, even titanium. Iíve been making aluminum ferrules for about four years with no failures yet even though the tensile and yield strengths are less than nickel silver, and bamboo canít be even close to the same tensile and yield strengths of metal, yet it looks like bamboo will make a very good ferrule too.