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1st attempt at a cork grip from scratch


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#1 M-D

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 09:05 PM

Today I made my first stab at making a cork grip from scratch. I used a piece of 1/4" steel rod for the mandrel and I waxed it before gluing up the rings with Titebond III.

I let the glue dry for 24+ hours in the clamp before I put it on the lathe to shape it up. I am truly amazed at how nice it sanded up and quite happy with the whole process until I went to take it off the mandrel. I think I did not have a good enough grip on the cork and it twisted too much causing 5 splits in the cork.

 

The finished grip, 10" long and going on a 7' SCIII for a dedicated Bass Jig fishing rod...

IMG_20160618_214512890_zpsjfhih4uw.jpg

 

One of the splits, the worst one, just above my thumb nail...

IMG_20160618_214205593_zpskudrioay.jpg

 

Sure would appreciate your thoughts on how to prevent this in the future and if I need to do anything to the grip to address these splits before or while I am installing it on the blank. I was thinking I could just epoxy it on the blank and put it in the vise while the epoxy setup?

 

I REALLY enjoyed making this grip!



#2 Greg LaPolla

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 09:22 PM

My first thought would be not enough wax.  I use an old candle and just run it all over the mandril.  before glueing.  

 

You may be removing the wax by moving the cork to much.

When Applying glue, put a very thin coat on each side of the cork.  Try to stay away from the center hole your gonna ream it out any way.  

only slide cork in one direction, back and forth with remove the wax.

Make sure the mandril is clean and smooth.  run it at 1500 RPM on the lathe and hit it with some double ought (00) steel wool.  Be careful it can wrap around and grab!

 

My clamp is only open on one end, so I actually have to slide the grip up the mandril to put it in my lathe.

If your clamp is open on both ends, maybe once every 45 minutes or so slide the mandril an inch or so.  For the first 3 to 4 hours and that might help.

 

If it gets stuck again, try a heat gun on the mandril

 

 

Greg



#3 M-D

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 06:06 AM

Well then, I can think of a couple of things that I definitely did wrong...

Too much glue, I slathered it on every bit of the surface of the ring! I bet this was my biggest mistake.

Did not polish up the mandrel.

I slid the cork down the mandrel and did not go back and forth but I did twist it some when each one made contact with the other to ensure good contact with the glue.

 

Should I do anything to repair the splits I have created or just glue it on the blank and move on?

 

THANKS again for your help Greg!



#4 Jay McKnight

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 07:56 AM

I'd get a section of threaded rod, a couple nuts and some fender washers. I've never had to wax threaded rod. Work some glue into the splits, clamp it down with the threaded rod, clean off all the excess glue immediately. I like to unclamp my rings after 2-3 hours and pull the threaded rod out, then let it dry at least overnight before turning.



#5 steeldrifter

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 08:14 AM

Personally I've never had any issue with too much glue or even getting the glue in the hole on the ring being an issue. Long as you have a nice smooth mandrel and use enough wax it shouldn't stick much. I think the issue may be the fact that you are using all mix burl rings. The mixed rings (light mix, dark mix, etc etc) seem to always be a bit easier to split than something like brown burl or natural cork. So when you use all mix cork it just takes a bit more precaution than if you have mostly brown burl rings with a few mix rings between them. Anytime I use all mix rings for a grip I usually just take a 1/4" rasp and slightly open the bore of the rings up a tad. That prevents the glued up rings from pushing the wax off the mandrel when sliding them down so makes pulling the mandrel out a breeze then.


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#6 Goduster

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 08:48 AM

I always glue mine up on all thread using a candle to wax the threads, the transfer to my mandrel for turning


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#7 M-D

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 09:15 AM

I wondered if the type of cork had something to do with it.

Goduster, So you can probably just "unscrew" the grip off of the all thread correct? Neat idea, will give that a go next time.

When you transfer to the mandrel for turning, does the cork stay put or do you have to do anything to get it to not turn on the mandrel?

 

Jay, that is just what I was thinking I would do just to be safe.

 

THANKS so much for all of the help Fellas and keep it coming!!



#8 Goduster

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 09:44 AM

If it wants to slip, I just add a little masking tape to the mandrel to tighten it up


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#9 PENZZZ

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 10:37 AM

My recommendation would be to clamp the glued rings, then remove the mandrel before the glue cures.



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