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Considering building a couple of fly rods. First time. Learning curve?


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#16 John T.

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 03:59 PM

Karen has done that for me- tell her what you want and she makes up a package.


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#17 Chris_NH

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 08:34 PM

Thanks for all the info folks. :) Still taking it all in. Will definitely check the auctions and contact Karen.

#18 John A.

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 08:16 AM

Once you have decided on your blank, I suggest you contact Goduster (Ron). Provide him with the butt diameter of the blank and he can put together a reel seat, insert, and grip package to fit the rod. That way you are assured of getting something that will be fairly easy for a first time builder to asssemble.

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#19 Chris_NH

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 08:34 AM

OK, I've been trying to wrap my head around what a project like this would entail... Please have a look at the image, which is a shopping cart at Angler's Workshop full of the things to build 2 fly rods.

 

I don't know where I'll ultimately buy the components, but figured I'd assemble what I thought to be a complete cart of materials/supplies to build 2 rods (minus the winding machine that I can borrow from an acquaintance) and those of you who actually know what you're doing can tell me if I've got what I need.

 

I did include 1 extra snake guide of each size to be on the safe side and 3 fish decals as extras.

 

So, what do I have that I don't need - and need that I don't have. And any of these components grossly overpriced or not the best bang for the buck?  Would I have 2 rods worth $115 each, or would I be better off just buying finished rods?

 

Thanks for all your input so far. :) It's appreciated, and it's making me consider a project that I otherwise would have shied away from.

 

 

2xrods.PNG?dl=0



#20 Carl Z

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 10:45 AM

That's a good list.  Now I know why it takes forever to put together a parts order.

 

I would have gotten a tiptop in size 4.0 and 5.0 as well. While not absolutely necessary, having the next size up or down is sometimes good, and you are not going to need anything under a 3.5.

 

On the same concept, I would have ordered a size larger and smaller winding check.  It's hard to know what size winding check you are going to need until the grip is on, or at least you have the blank in hand.

 

 

Other tools:  

  Rattail files to ream the cork out (or a cork reamer),  

  Sand paper (220 grit or maybe 320) to rough up the blank under the grip and reelseat,

  Masking tape (for arbors)

  

And the nice to have's

  Drying motor kit  to keep the rod spinning while the epoxy sets.  You can do this by hand by rotating the rod every 15 min. or so, but don't forget or you will get lopsided wraps.

   rod wrapping jig. I don't use one myself, but some people love them.

 

 

I'm sure you can get components cheaper on sale, but these look like MSRP.  

 

The only thing I think you should consider is that these are two piece rods.  The 904-4 is about the same price as the 904-2 right now. The price jump from 2 to 4 pieces on the 7'9" 3wt is a bit more.   If you are building a 4pc, you are getting a good bang for your buck.  If you are after a 2pc, it's hard to compare since there aren't a lot of 2pc rods being sold anymore.  Also, you will have extra materials for building rod 3 and 4 if you want to.



#21 Goduster

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 11:30 AM

Too large of guides for me, and too many sizes on the snakes for the way I build 


Ron Weber
Southwest Custom Rods

www.southwestcustomrods.com


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http://www.southwest...l-seat-hardware

 

Authorized  Snake Brand guide dealer


#22 Chris_NH

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 04:43 PM

 
The only thing I think you should consider is that these are two piece rods.  The 904-4 is about the same price as the 904-2 right now. The price jump from 2 to 4 pieces on the 7'9" 3wt is a bit more.   If you are building a 4pc, you are getting a good bang for your buck.  If you are after a 2pc, it's hard to compare since there aren't a lot of 2pc rods being sold anymore.  Also, you will have extra materials for building rod 3 and 4 if you want to.

I think I prefer 2 piece rods. I have 4 piece rods currently and except for storing in sock and tube I never break it down that far. I'm thinking less to go wrong with 2 piece. Am I missing some advantage to 4 over 2? I never put them in a backpack, and already have. A traveler 5 piece set if I decide to.

And I like the idea of rods 3 & 4. :-)

#23 Chris_NH

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 04:44 PM

Too large of guides for me, and too many sizes on the snakes for the way I build

I got the sizes and numbers from the manufacturer's sheet specifically for the Rainforest ii blank. Is it not optimal?

#24 Goduster

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 05:13 PM

Not in my personal opinion. Most of the builds I do are at least 1 size smaller than most specs, and the running guides usually 2. Most I my build will have the stripper, 1 transition guide, and the rest ( running guides ) all the same size. No reason for a cone of flight guide setup on it. Use the smallest running guides possible that will pass your knot. Your 3wt if I built it would have a #8 stripper, #4 transistion guide and 7 #1 or 1/0 running guides


Ron Weber
Southwest Custom Rods

www.southwestcustomrods.com


Your Lemke reel seat dealer
http://www.southwest...l-seat-hardware

 

Authorized  Snake Brand guide dealer


#25 ANR

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 12:44 AM

I'm with Ron regarding guide sizing.

#26 Chris_NH

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 06:31 AM

What is the "transition guide" mentioned? Is it a second, smaller stripping guide, or is it a larger snake guide?



#27 Goduster

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 07:32 AM

Just the 2nd guide


Ron Weber
Southwest Custom Rods

www.southwestcustomrods.com


Your Lemke reel seat dealer
http://www.southwest...l-seat-hardware

 

Authorized  Snake Brand guide dealer


#28 FisherQueen

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 07:33 PM

Ditto what Ron and Eric said on guide sizing for the 3.  On the 4wt, I'd probably do a #10 stripper, a 4, a 3, and the rest 1s (and I don't think the 3 is that necessary).  I wouldn't go to 1/0s on the 4wt in case I wanted to overline it. I can pass the knot of a 5wt line through a 1/0 but it takes a little more focus than I usually want to put into it when I'm fishing.   You'll want to tape the guides on and static test them to make sure the placement works well; when you depart from the manufacturer's suggested guide sizing, the guide spacing often needs some tweaking.

 

For me, the advantage of a 4 piece over a 2 piece is the availability of rod socks and cases at a reasonable price, and the ease of tossing a 4-piece rod (or two or three) in my car or my luggage. Rod cases are often available as closeouts when models are discontinued, but with most rods being sold in 4-piece versions, closeout 2-piece cases are harder to come by.  I can (and do) make cases from PVC, but I like the look of a nice rod case.



#29 Chris_NH

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 10:08 AM

Could someone explain a bit more about the guide placement static test?  I imagine you just pass line through the guides, attach it to something and flex the rod looking for spots where line isn't equi-distant from the rod?  Any proper techniques, or more to it than that?



#30 Goduster

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 10:37 AM

I tape the guides in their respective suggested position. thin with the tip installed, I tie a line to it and flex the rod to appx a 90% angle. I then run anothe separate line thru the guides, and position them basically as you stated with an equal drop between the rod and the guides, mark and start your build. One point of caution though whether temporary or permanent, I do wrap the female ferules before performing the procedure to avoid any possible failure at the ferule. Some just tape up the ferrule sith sufficient tape, I have see others use wire ties, but I just wrap them prior, even before doing any flexing of the blank.


Ron Weber
Southwest Custom Rods

www.southwestcustomrods.com


Your Lemke reel seat dealer
http://www.southwest...l-seat-hardware

 

Authorized  Snake Brand guide dealer




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