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PMQ Poor mans quad


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#31 drgoretex

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 01:42 PM

QUOTE(testwood @ Aug 30 2007, 01:46 PM) View Post

Hi - I bought some chrom plated brass ferrules from JannsNetcraft for my PMQ ($1.79) great value.
Should I make small sawcuts and try and form a square where the ferrule buts on to the rod, I think the process is called 'Crowning'. or is it OK to leave the ferrule as is ?. dunno.gif
Thanks


FWIW, I just *slightly* rounded the square off the last inch of the blank, so that when the ferrule is fit on, there is only a small gap on the flats where the ferrule is round. Each of these I filled witha very thin shaving of boo and *carefully* tapered it to the flat. You will find with the cheap ferrules that the blank end that fits into the male ferrule has to be shaved down a lot more than the female end. Just make sure you don't shave/sand down the blank too much, or it will be weak and snap right there in a deep flex.

Ken
"I'm a fisherman, not a doctor"

#32 phg

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 02:01 PM

To elaborate just a bit more, when you wrap up to the male ferrule, think of it as strain relief. Pack it really tight, and jam it against the step. I go a bit further and double wrap the first 3/8" above the ferrule. Historically speaking, that has always been the weakest point on a bamboo rod. More breaks happen right there than anywhere else. It's the main reason why tip sections on antique rods are often 3" short....

#33 testwood

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Posted 20 September 2007 - 01:59 PM

Hi - Thanks for the advice on the ferrules.
Can I ask for further HELP ?. help.gif
Do I soak the cane strips in water before heating and flatening the nodes and straightening the strip ? I am sure I have seen that recommended somewhere. On my first PMQ I did soak them which made the strips easier to work on but as I was working with garden centre cane I wasnt the fussed. Now I am working with Tonkin I am concerned that the rod will turn out soft. Do you guys soak ? if so for how long?
Thanks

#34 Mungo Park

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 12:11 AM

Some guys soak them before plaining them, I did not, I had no problem with then dry. Do not soak them to straighten them you heat them to straighten them.
If you do soak them it would be overnight or for day or so, put al little bleach in the water to keep things from growing in it. Rember they might shrink a tad when they dry out.
Cheers Ron.
In my limited experience, never pet a burning dog.

#35 testwood

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 02:10 PM

Thanks Mungo Park - The reason I asked about soaking the strips is I sometimes get charing when heating over the heat gun. I guess I shall have to be more patient and try not to heat up the strips too quickly thereby charing them.

#36 phg

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 05:31 PM

Charring on the pith side is normal and not a problem. You're going to plane all that off anyway. Even a bit of charring on the split edges is ok for the same reason.

#37 jayhake

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 05:51 PM

I would highly recommend that you soak your strips [i]before[u] you heat and press the nodes. IMHO the moist cane conducts the heat much better, the strips straighten easier, and they are easier to plane. Oh, and no charring...
"Obsessions don't seem extraordinary if it's just the way you are." ~ Jim Harrison

#38 gmreeves

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Posted 05 October 2007 - 02:36 PM

Can someone go into a little more detail on how to install the round ferrule on the square blank? I plan on making the blank this weekend. I have my parts on order and they should be here on Monday and would like to complete the rod before the following weekend but am a little puzzled by the ferrule installation.

Do I round the bamboo where the ferrule slides on?
Do I build up the bamboo at the ferrule some how and then round it?
Do I just slide it on and fill with epoxy and try to hide the square gaps with thread wraps?
Combo of all three?

I guess it goes back my childhood days when I was told that the square peg wouldn't fit in the round hole.


#39 Mungo Park

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Posted 05 October 2007 - 03:52 PM

Go down about half way down the page.

http://www.rodbuildi...?...14953&st=60

Cheers Ron.
In my limited experience, never pet a burning dog.

#40 testwood

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Posted 06 October 2007 - 03:27 PM

Thank to Mungo Park, PMG and all I have just finished my third PMQ the Payne 100 that was posted and am very pleased with it, caused a mild sensation on the river bank when I explained what it was ' A poors mans what!'.

Managed to put into practice the advise on fitting ferules, whipping, glues etc. This rod I just finished with a few coats of Tung Oil. Found that some advice on writing name etc on the rod worked great on the dried Tung Oil with no running or smearing with a standard Gel Pen.

The problem is playing with PMQ's is easier then trying to complete my first Hex wich is turing into a battle of wills !

What type of thread do you use for transparent wraps Please ?

#41 phg

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Posted 06 October 2007 - 07:49 PM

Sounds great, but where's the pictures! banana.gif

I really like that Payne 100-Quad. The only fault I have with it, is that it has difficulty picking up a deep running beadhead nymph for a recast. As a dryfly rod, it's hard to beat.

For transparent wraps, use white gossamer silk. White nylon will become almost transparent, but the silk will all but disappear.

#42 testwood

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 03:58 AM

Hi phg - I promise I will learn how to upload photos with my post, first I may have to upgrade my camera.
Can you point me to the post where someone set out the method to post photos.
Thanks for the info on thread.
I was using a dry fly phg, first fish I caught was a small grayling which I lifted out putting an alarming bend it the tip, still it tested out a small flaw in the boo !. hysterical.gif

#43 gmreeves

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 08:40 AM

Another quick question. When I attach the reel seat and handle to the PMQ blank, should I build it up and sand it round like I did for accepting the ferrules?

#44 phg

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 02:13 PM

I do. It's a lot easier to work with, and saves weakening the rod at the grip.

#45 testwood

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Posted 11 October 2007 - 01:36 PM

Hi - I find it intersting that Heat Treating the strips for a PMQ is not discussed.
Other that flaming the inside of the half culm is does not appear that anyone heat treats futher and yet most people would heat treat a hex rod and not just to straighten the strips but to change the phyisical properties of the cane.
We apply a factor of .95 or .93 to adjust for cross sectional area and ignore heat treating. Why ?
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Not that I have a heat treating oven - yet



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