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Bamboo Spey Rod


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#1 TODDFATHER

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 09:04 PM



I'm back from taking a rather long sabbatical from rod building and thought I'd like to make a bamboo spey rod. Having never made one before, or for that matter, even used one, it begs a few questions. I'm looking for a little help on the selection of a taper, and advise on what might seem reasonable regarding length and weight. Given that bamboo is much heavier than plastic, I would think 11 footer would be reasonably manageable. After all, it is a two handed rod! Regarding weight? I was thinking something in the 6-weight flavor would do nicely, but then again, having no experience making or using spey rods prompts me to troll for advise. Whatever I build will be node less, and hollow built.

A few questions:
If I build the afore mentioned rod, would 3pc equally divided be ok?

Would ferrules, or spliced be preferable?

Does anyone have a successful taper that fits the above criteria that they would be willing to share?


Thanks, Toddfather

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#2 fishbum

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 09:57 PM

QUOTE (TODDFATHER @ Jan 28 2013, 09:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
A few questions:
If I build the afore mentioned rod, would 3pc equally divided be ok?

Would ferrules, or spliced be preferable?

Does anyone have a successful taper that fits the above criteria that they would be willing to share?


Thanks, Toddfather


1) Three piece would be fine. Would make a rod that is easy to transport.

2) Ferrules would be my first preferance. No hinge in the middle of the joint.

3) I have an 11' 7 weight hollow rod. I need to find the taper.

Jerry

#3 jfischer

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 02:26 PM

Hi Toddfather,

yes 3 equal sections are fine. Regarding ferrule choice, I would also recommend NiSi ferrules for easy use. Splice joints are preferable when you want to save money or if you can leave the rod taped together the whole day or even longer. Splice Joints are also lighter.

With respect to tapers -- I made several short spey rods in the 11-12ft range, but these are considerably stronger (#8 or 30-34grams). Let me know if you like one of these. Otherwise there is Ron Grantham who has published a short Spey taper.
Petri Heil, Jürgen


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#4 climbingpatagonia

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 01:23 PM

QUOTE (jfischer @ Jan 29 2013, 02:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi Toddfather,

yes 3 equal sections are fine. Regarding ferrule choice, I would also recommend NiSi ferrules for easy use. Splice joints are preferable when you want to save money or if you can leave the rod taped together the whole day or even longer. Splice Joints are also lighter.

With respect to tapers -- I made several short spey rods in the 11-12ft range, but these are considerably stronger (#8 or 30-34grams). Let me know if you like one of these. Otherwise there is Ron Grantham who has published a short Spey taper.
Petri Heil, Jürgen


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#5 msrampant

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Posted 27 June 2013 - 03:36 AM

I was curious on how you went with this? Did you find a taper to work for you and did you get to finish the spey rod? I was looking around for something around 12' 7wt and was going to ask how you went.
Mark

#6 rasputinj

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Posted 30 November 2013 - 12:09 AM

QUOTE (msrampant @ Jun 27 2013, 12:36 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I was curious on how you went with this? Did you find a taper to work for you and did you get to finish the spey rod? I was looking around for something around 12' 7wt and was going to ask how you went.
Mark


I would suggest splices, I worked on a taper my neighbor built, so far it looks like a good 10'6 3 piece rod. I fell in love with splices after meeting with James Reid in Vancouver and fishing with his spliced single and spey rods. I would suggest looking at Classic forum, James posted somewhere a spey taper based off a Sharpes.



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