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Final Planing Question for Carlin


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#1 CaneNable

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 08:22 AM

In this year's rod build you said the following regarding your final planing:

QUOTE
First I remove the enamel.  With the enamel side now flat and smooth I start at the tip of the strip using the smooth block plane and begin to taper it by working my way towards the butt. 6-12 passess this way give a decent taper, followed by one full length pass to smooth things out. The strip is then flipped and worked the same way, followed by a good cleaning of the V groove in the forms.  Next I take a look at which side is cleaner - especially around the nodes - and make 3-6 passes with my grooved block plane on that side. This finishes this side of the strip. With this done I clean out the forms of any dust, flip the strip and continue planing until the strip is flush with the top of the form, making sure the final few passes are done with the grooved plane.


It appears that you clean up one side, establish a 60 degree angle, then set that side in the form and plane down the other side. Do you use any kind of measuring tool in the process (micrometer or 60 angle guage)? I have been turning my strips after every 3 or 4 passes and then measuring the strips but that really is slow. I was under the impression that if you didn't flip the strips after a few passes you wouldn't establish the proper angles. Do you measure your strip size along the way or just plane level with the form?

Thanks for the great pictures and explanation of your process by the way. Tom

#2 Fly1

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 12:39 PM

I don't know what others do but I never measure my strips. I just set my forms then double check it again before I start planing and then that's it. I'll just measure my blank after it's all glued up and ready to finish. I find I'm usually within a thou or two of what my taper should be and that's close enough for me wink.gif The trick is gettint to know your forms and having faith in your own process.

Ken cool.gif
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#3 Carlin

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 01:01 PM

QUOTE
It appears that you clean up one side, establish a 60 degree angle, then set that side in the form and plane down the other side.

Mostly correct, except I also establish a taper to each side of the strip. I'd say at the point where I'm ready to final plane one side of the strip the dimensions are around .010" over final dimensions.

QUOTE
Do you use any kind of measuring tool in the process (micrometer or 60 angle guage)? I have been turning my strips after every 3 or 4 passes and then measuring the strips but that really is slow. Do you measure your strip size along the way or just plane level with the form?

I'm with Ken on this one in that I rarely mic or check angles any more, and if I do I usually just eyeball the angle. However, I do check the dimensions of a few stations after I have finished my first strip to confirm that I have my forms set properly.

For your first rod or two I'd strongly suggest continuing to check angles and mic occasionally to see how things are doing, but once you get the hang of your tools and your forms, you won't need to worry about it as much. The key, as Ken said, is to learn to be consistent and that only takes time.

QUOTE
I was under the impression that if you didn't flip the strips after a few passes you wouldn't establish the proper angles.

You don't need to flip your strips that often to preserve the angles, assuming you've started out with a good 60* to begin with. For a standard strip that doesn't give me any problems or isn't too over sized when I begin, I'll flip each strip 4 times during final planing.

Here is a repost of how I do it in a list view, YMMV:
  • Rough plane or bevel to get untapered, 60* strips
  • Remove enamel
  • Starting near the tip, begin planing making each pass closer to the butt to create an initial taper
  • Make 1 or 2 full length passes to smooth out that side of the strip
  • Flip and repeat previous 2 steps
  • Check each side of the strip looking for the best side, clean the forms, then make 3-6 passes with finish plane (more if needed of course) to complete work on that side of the strip
  • Clean forms, flip strip and plane until flush with the top of the form
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Chris

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#4 CaneNable

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 04:05 PM

Thanks for the clarification. I have made a dozen or so rods and I am trying to figure out how to streamline my process a bit and speed up the planing process. I probably am overmeasuring, but all the books and videos I have looked at seem to be adamant about flipping the strips often. I have been micing the strips as Harry Boyd suggested on one of the building sites, but I think I may be better off just using the 60 angle guage to establish my bevel and then just trust the forms. I think it would speed up my present process tremendously.

Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. Tom



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