64 replies to this topic

[timmy]

Timmy, That is a most interesting idea! Can you tell me if you keep your pouring container positioned at the top of your rod section or do you follow the shaft from the top to the bottom with your pouring container as you pour? I usually only thin the amount of finish I plan on using for a rod, about how many ounces of finish will I need for a pouring routine like yours?
Thanks
Mike

I try to follow the varnish down, topping up as needed. In reality, the thin varnish flows down quickly and I find it hard to keep up but after the first 18" or so it rather looks after itself.
As to quantity, thats a little harder for me to answer. Obviously you need a lot more than actually ends up on the rod, but that can be saved and reused. I have been working on the principle of "That much varnish with oh, about this much thinner" but 6floz. of thinned finish is probably plenty to do a 2/2 rod without collecting and recycling between sections. I wouldn't want to start a section with less than 2-2.5floz. I'm still learning on this too, I'll measure quantitys when I do the Payne 100 towards the end of the week. I may also try to do a video (silent to protect innocent ears).

Cheers,
Tim.

[karelgol]

Thanks for the idea Timmy! Being not native English speaking, and so not knowing what a turkey baster is i decided to use a syringe to "pour" the varnish. You're right, it's that fast you can't keep up with the varnish running down. So far i'm pleased with the result!

Karel

[karelgol]

Incredible coincidence! I just watched Discovery Channel, the program "How it's made" where they had an item about building bamboo fly rods. The documentary was filmed at Thomas & Thomas. It all looked a bit rough to me (not paying attention to keeping the strips straight until the strips were glued and then just straightening the whole rod), but when it came to varnishing they used your method! I even know now what a turkey baster is!

Karel

[timmy]

After finishing a fair few rods by pouring the varnish from a jug. I have finally got round to trying a turkey baster. Try it if you like, but my advice would be to stick to the jug. I found that I needed two hands to control the baster, and one to turn the rod, and although my wife might raise an eyebrow at me claiming to be "normal", I do only posses the standard pair of hands.
With the baster I had less control over the flow of varnish, and so used more and got messier.
With the jug I can put the right amount of finish in the right place so it al flows down the rod, rather than spraying it all over the finishing room and myself.

That said, if there is anyone out there who prefers the baster, I'd be interested to here how you do it.

Cheers,

Tim.

[jayhake]

Timmy,

I also just finished a rod and used the baster, rather than the jug. I agree with your statement that the baster is a bit more difficult to control, but I found I used less varnish and I am a bit happier with the finish. This may just be due to better dust control (I varnished in the bathroom after running the shower to knock down the dust, wiped with naptha, then wiped with tack cloth).

The primary downside I found with the baster is a couldn't get it tucked into the corner between the grip and the first grip/signature wrap to get a properly even coat right on that wrap. On the plus side, I was able to control the flow of the varnish more effectively by squeezing the baster than I could with simply pouring.

I think I might try a small measuring cup with a pour spout on it to see if that works any better.

Cheers,

Jay

[MTtyer]

What seems to work well are the little squeeze-end things that are made to administer kid's medicines. They don't drip very bad and you have a lot of control over where the varnish is "squirting" and how much is going on.
My biggest problem (so far) in pouring finish is that one batch was not quite thin enough and accumulated too thick on the tip end of some tip sections. I won't make that mistake again.

[timmy]

Jayhake, funny how if you ask two rodmakers you get two different answers, although I do agree with you about trying to get into the corner by the grip. I have moved on from the jug to a measuring cylinder like I use for my home-brew. The one I really like has quite a large spout that I can sort of fit the section into and pour over three sides at once. it dosen't entrly solve the corner problem, but I find that spot builds fairly quickly when coating the whippings, so I don't worry too much about it.

I do like you varnishing in the bathroom Idea though, I'll definatly be trying that.

MT. I've poured it too thick as well, you should have heard the language!

Cheers,

Tim.

[testwood]

Thanks jaylake etal - I'm going to try it !!. Would you recommend Yacht Varnish or Polyurethane Varnish. Does it matter?

I guess as someone overcoated in one hour it must work with Polyurethane. Would there be a problem with drying Yacht varnish. It was a very interesting and long post but I did not see what type of varnish was used.

[jayhake]

Testwood,

I don't know what you mean by Yacht Varnish. What I use is basic Ace Hardware brand spar varnish, it comes in a green can. I wait 6-8 hours, as it states on the can, before I pour a second coat. I have never used poly based finish, so I can't speak to its results. I like the Ace Hardware spar and it is readily available.

Cheers,

Jay

[timmy]

Testwood,

A fellow englishman, huzzah! I grew up very close to Reading (Yateley) but have since moved up north.

I use Azco Nobel Yaucht varnish. I pour it on, and leave 24 hours between coats. I buy it a B&Q and the can looks like this-

[testwood]

Hey Thanks jaylake and Timmy. Would you believe it Timmy tomorrow whilst my wife is at her regular handicraft day in Yatley ( in Old School Road) I shall be using the bathroom to pour my latest rod, a PMQ using the George Maurer taper 7ft 4wt. I got from the taper lib:
Multiplying the flats by .93 has produced a super rod , great dry fly action I tryed it on the lawn. I have nicknamed this rod JO-LO because it has the most magnificent swelled BUTT !. Lets hope my varnishing goes to plan.
Timmy do you know where I can get Pearsalls Naples silk in the UK plenty of suppliers sell Gossemer?. Failing that, what silk would you recomend?. I spoke to Gary Marshall the rod builder (found him on the web) on the phone and he mentioned YLI have you tried their silk.
I presume you thin the spar varnish with white spirit.
Cheers

[timmy]

I have only whipped one rod with naples, and I got that in a lot of old flytying bits. although the whipping went quicker, to my mind the extra faff of gossemer is worth it for the finer finish it gives. That said, I've not used any other manufacturers silks so perhaps some experimentation is in order.

Yes I thin with white spirt.

Cheers,

Tim.

(edit) naples does make really nice segmented bodies on nymphs though, so if you do find a supplier, please let me know.

[testwood]

Thanks Timmy - I bought an exact tin of International last week which I will use tomorrow. Out of interest I emailed Azco Nobel to ask if the varnish contained Tung Oil and they replied that it didnot.

Cheers

[timmy]

I belive it's a PU based varnish.

Good luck with the varnish tomorrow. I'll look foward to seeing the results.

Tim.

[testwood]

Timmy - The varnishing went super and I managed to get the bathroom shipshape before senior management returned from Yately .
By really thinning the varnish down you avoid runs. Second coat now on.
My digital camera does not take very good closeups but I am looking into upgrading.
Fishing tackle or camera . ???