Final Planing Question for Carlin
Posted 17 January 2007 - 08:22 AM
|First I remove the enamel. With the enamel side now flat and smooth I start at the tip of the strip using the smooth block plane and begin to taper it by working my way towards the butt. 6-12 passess this way give a decent taper, followed by one full length pass to smooth things out. The strip is then flipped and worked the same way, followed by a good cleaning of the V groove in the forms. Next I take a look at which side is cleaner - especially around the nodes - and make 3-6 passes with my grooved block plane on that side. This finishes this side of the strip. With this done I clean out the forms of any dust, flip the strip and continue planing until the strip is flush with the top of the form, making sure the final few passes are done with the grooved plane.|
It appears that you clean up one side, establish a 60 degree angle, then set that side in the form and plane down the other side. Do you use any kind of measuring tool in the process (micrometer or 60 angle guage)? I have been turning my strips after every 3 or 4 passes and then measuring the strips but that really is slow. I was under the impression that if you didn't flip the strips after a few passes you wouldn't establish the proper angles. Do you measure your strip size along the way or just plane level with the form?
Thanks for the great pictures and explanation of your process by the way. Tom
Posted 17 January 2007 - 12:39 PM
Credit River Cane Rods
Credit River Anglers Association
Ken Paterson, Streetsville, Ontario
Posted 17 January 2007 - 01:01 PM
|It appears that you clean up one side, establish a 60 degree angle, then set that side in the form and plane down the other side.|
Mostly correct, except I also establish a taper to each side of the strip. I'd say at the point where I'm ready to final plane one side of the strip the dimensions are around .010" over final dimensions.
|Do you use any kind of measuring tool in the process (micrometer or 60 angle guage)? I have been turning my strips after every 3 or 4 passes and then measuring the strips but that really is slow. Do you measure your strip size along the way or just plane level with the form?|
I'm with Ken on this one in that I rarely mic or check angles any more, and if I do I usually just eyeball the angle. However, I do check the dimensions of a few stations after I have finished my first strip to confirm that I have my forms set properly.
For your first rod or two I'd strongly suggest continuing to check angles and mic occasionally to see how things are doing, but once you get the hang of your tools and your forms, you won't need to worry about it as much. The key, as Ken said, is to learn to be consistent and that only takes time.
|I was under the impression that if you didn't flip the strips after a few passes you wouldn't establish the proper angles.|
You don't need to flip your strips that often to preserve the angles, assuming you've started out with a good 60* to begin with. For a standard strip that doesn't give me any problems or isn't too over sized when I begin, I'll flip each strip 4 times during final planing.
Here is a repost of how I do it in a list view, YMMV:
- Rough plane or bevel to get untapered, 60* strips
- Remove enamel
- Starting near the tip, begin planing making each pass closer to the butt to create an initial taper
- Make 1 or 2 full length passes to smooth out that side of the strip
- Flip and repeat previous 2 steps
- Check each side of the strip looking for the best side, clean the forms, then make 3-6 passes with finish plane (more if needed of course) to complete work on that side of the strip
- Clean forms, flip strip and plane until flush with the top of the form
Posted 17 January 2007 - 04:05 PM
Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. Tom
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