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#16 canerodscom

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 10:27 AM

QUOTE (John T. @ Jan 18 2014, 09:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Here's my take on turning on the blank: if you screw up (which will happen at some time shocking.gif ), you have to remove all the cork from the blank. I feel that turning on
a mandrel allows you to take your time with no hassle of keeping the blank supported.


clapping.gif

And here's my take on turning on the rod... Having reamed each cork ring separately, you have a better fit to the blank. There are no gaps to fill or hide with a winding check. The grip "should be" more durable since the fit to the blank is tighter. There is no way to get things off center unless your blank is crooked. In my opinion, turning on the blank is a sign of good craftsmanship.

Both are good methods. Some work for one person better than the other. Neither is wrong, neither is right. Just different.

Best,

Harry
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#17 SAMPLER

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 03:22 PM

QUOTE (canerodscom @ Jan 18 2014, 10:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (John T. @ Jan 18 2014, 09:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Here's my take on turning on the blank: if you screw up (which will happen at some time shocking.gif ), you have to remove all the cork from the blank. I feel that turning on
a mandrel allows you to take your time with no hassle of keeping the blank supported.


clapping.gif

And here's my take on turning on the rod... Having reamed each cork ring separately, you have a better fit to the blank. There are no gaps to fill or hide with a winding check. The grip "should be" more durable since the fit to the blank is tighter. There is no way to get things off center unless your blank is crooked. In my opinion, turning on the blank is a sign of good craftsmanship.

Both are good methods. Some work for one person better than the other. Neither is wrong, neither is right. Just different.

Best,

Harry



thumbsup.gif

These are the feelings I share and the driving force to why I want to take this step. I I turn handles on a mandrel without any issue but feel this step may push my success a little higher up the ladder.


#18 Goduster

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 04:54 PM

One thing to keep in mind is that a graphite blank is in my opinion considerably more fragile than a boo one.

Ron Weber
Southwest Custom Rods

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http://www.southwest...l-seat-hardware

 

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#19 Bowbiker

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 12:46 AM

QUOTE (canerodscom @ Jan 18 2014, 11:57 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (John T. @ Jan 18 2014, 09:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Here's my take on turning on the blank: if you screw up (which will happen at some time shocking.gif ), you have to remove all the cork from the blank. I feel that turning on
a mandrel allows you to take your time with no hassle of keeping the blank supported.


clapping.gif

And here's my take on turning on the rod... Having reamed each cork ring separately, you have a better fit to the blank. There are no gaps to fill or hide with a winding check. The grip "should be" more durable since the fit to the blank is tighter. There is no way to get things off center unless your blank is crooked. In my opinion, turning on the blank is a sign of good craftsmanship.

Both are good methods. Some work for one person better than the other. Neither is wrong, neither is right. Just different.

Best,

Harry


Hi Harry,
I concur 100%.

I had the privelidge to work with EOTR(Brent Nickerson) to build my latest Bamboo Rod from scratch. Some of his methods and techniques left me in awe.
Here is a link to the method we used to hex my cork........I glued up the handle and then we turned it on his lathe using the method you described Harry.

http://classicflyrod...it=cork#p545932



No need for a Winding Check......just a few turns of black thread.

Regards,
Dick Seymour





#20 canerodscom

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 09:35 AM

Again, there are no right ways or wrong ways.

There's no need to do so, but over my last hundred rods or so, I have started using winding checks. I like making them and they seem to tie together the front of the grip with the reel seat end.


Harry Boyd
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http://www.canerods.com
Heat Treating Fixtures and Ovens
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(318)282-1825 Shop/cell phone

#21 rhossack

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 10:02 AM

QUOTE (DonO @ Jan 14 2014, 06:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It really isn't safe or even possible to turn grips on a long blank with a wood lathe unless you have a way to support both ends and several points along the length. I would turn the grip on a mandrel to final shape then glue it to the blank.

What do you consider long?

Having never seen a Renzetti or Pacbay except in pictures it looks like sewing machine motors but what do I know.

This question Dana posted is loaded. Simply because we all have ideas/methods that work for us and it's kind of like bellybuttons ... most of us have one. I can see this as being a long-winded reply with my interpretation of the solutions.

I have done lots of demos and turned on that lathe at Woodcraft and I can't stand the fact you can't adjust the speed except via belt changes.

First recommendation would be to add a Variable Speed Motor and PSI has one for around a $100. Invaluable in my opinion.

I have three lathes (working on getting a 18x47) fourth this year because I'm making platters, bowls and boxes because SWMBO likes them and because she like them it is easier to get the tools necessary for this to happen when she supports my hobbies.

One is a 7 x 14 Cummins that I haven't turned on in a couple three years because I can't get that mini metal lathe to not cut a 0.006 taper in 3". I also have my very first 7x14 $50 wood lathe that has MT1 tapers that will eventually be the base for my baginski beveler.

I have a 10x18 wood lathe (and a bed extension that's never been out of the box) and have done 2 piece 9' rods with no problems. Steady rests are simple to make that are adjustable down to the smallest area by offsetting/stagger the wheels so they overlap themselves.

Most have posted pics of a 4-Jaw self-centering Wood Chucks which will not get small enough because at the closed position there is still a nice sized hole. These are great for turning inserts/pens but poor for handles on blanks.

Most chucks that size are unnecessary for rodbuilding. For the Rikon a MT2 Micro 3-Jaw self centering chuck would work just fine for this 2" Chuck and with a 20% coupon you're looking at $28.



There's this nice sized hole through the headstock and you can simply pass the rod blank through the headstock.

Over the last year and a half I've picked up some what I consider jewels in the "tips" departments via emails.

1 - Kevin Proctor posted about using K&S Stainless tubing from ACE for mandrels and of course I have 4 ACE's and none of them carry it.

I did find thick walled SS316 on Amazon that was cheap ($10) and I bought a 3' piece and covered the cost by selling 1/4" mandrels (with a $10 1/4" MT2 Round Collet) to our pen turners who keep buying these pieces of crap mild steel that bends easily.

2 - Randy Ruwe on using masking tape as a counter balance to eliminate whip or wobble in the tip end of the blank on short lathe beds due to lack of support of that portion of the tip that extends beyond your roller support. (anyone interested in this I'll be happy to post the long reply because it is simple and it works).

3 - Roger Wilson? posted on another forum about using these fiberglass driveway markers for those of you that live in snow country. Simply cut off a chunk and turn the end down to a taper so it fits inside the blank and then use a Live Center.

While Harry's method (gotten a lot of ideas from him) is great for butt ends that are solid like bamboo, I'm skeptical of using this method on a plastic rod blank because I'm paranoid.

4 - Koos has been kind enough to exchange emails with me and give me a ton of ideas. Here's a pic of his setup (Koos if I shouldn't have posted this I apologize) that should spark some interest especially on the steady rest. I used Inline Roller Skate Wheels I got free from the the local store that installs new wheels on these things and tosses the old ones away. These urethane wheels make great steady rests.



Now that I'm 95% percent back from my knee surgery and the crushed hand I did a couple of years ago I can play on the lathe at extended periods of time except for when it hovers around 0º - 20º in the garage.
“He who is without sin let them cast the first stone and make sure it’s a biggun, cause not many are going to come”.

#22 rhossack

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 10:03 AM

QUOTE (canerodscom @ Jan 19 2014, 10:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Again, there are no right ways or wrong ways.

There's no need to do so, but over my last hundred rods or so, I have started using winding checks. I like making them and they seem to tie together the front of the grip with the reel seat end.


Nice! Is that a metal hex winding check?

“He who is without sin let them cast the first stone and make sure it’s a biggun, cause not many are going to come”.

#23 45fisher

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 11:17 AM

QUOTE (Greg LaPolla @ Jan 14 2014, 08:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (SAMPLER @ Jan 14 2014, 05:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Harry, there is a center hole in the head stock so your method will work. I guess I never though about the blank going through the headlock and using a live center in the tailstock as the stabilizer. Now to buy a chuck.


Rockler has the Nova G3 on sale this week for 139.


If you go to the Nova tool site they have reconditioned Midi, G3 and Super Nova chucks for sale ($89-$99- $109 respectively).

That's where I got mine last year. A significant savings. thumbsup.gif


http://www.novatools...roducts_c10.htm

Larry

#24 Goduster

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 01:46 PM

One is a 7 x 14 Cummins that I haven't turned on in a couple three years because I can't get that mini metal lathe to not cut a 0.006 taper in 3".

I turn all of my inserts on a metal lathe, and agreed with the taper. I have finally got it set to .001 in 4" but it was quite a chore.
All the inserts are bored on my PSI VS wood lathe then transferred to the appropriate mandrel. I now have mandrel's in .312, .375. .4375, and .500 and am working on getting one made in .5625, as I hate using my boring bar enlarging from a .500 for some of the larger glass blanks that need it.

The consistency with the metal lathe is great, but then you have to remember that I turn mass amounts to go with my seats, not to mention considerably faster.

Below is a small batch of unfinished inserts for the BUL5 skeletons



Ron Weber
Southwest Custom Rods

www.southwestcustomrods.com


Your Lemke reel seat dealer
http://www.southwest...l-seat-hardware

 

Authorized  Snake Brand guide dealer


#25 John T.

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 02:22 PM

QUOTE
7 x 14 Cummins

Diesel? dry.gif

John T.

 

 

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#26 phg

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 03:16 PM

QUOTE (SAMPLER @ Jan 18 2014, 12:09 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Any thoughts on this set up....

http://www.pennstate...da-4-jaw-chucks



Will this pin jaw set hold a blank without to many issues?

Thanks for the feedback.

That chuck is a step up from the one I linked to the other day. If you're OK with the price, it is a better chuck. You get 3 sets of jaws with it, and if you check the specs, the #1 jaw has a minimum size of 1/16". To grip something smaller, you wound need to shim it with tape, or something. Most likely, you would want to do that anyway, to prevent marring the blank.

I don't know if this chuck has a through hole in it.

#27 canerodscom

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 06:33 PM

QUOTE (rhossack @ Jan 19 2014, 09:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (canerodscom @ Jan 19 2014, 10:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Again, there are no right ways or wrong ways.

There's no need to do so, but over my last hundred rods or so, I have started using winding checks. I like making them and they seem to tie together the front of the grip with the reel seat end.


Nice! Is that a metal hex winding check?


Yes, it's nkckel silver. The knurling matches the nickel silver reel seat hardware I make. Lotsa fun making these things!

Thanks for the kind words.

Harry
Harry Boyd
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http://www.canerods.com
Heat Treating Fixtures and Ovens
(318)435-5476 home phone
(318)282-1825 Shop/cell phone

#28 Lazer

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 09:42 AM

I've been turning on the blank on the lathe for a few years. I'd guess I'm pushing about a dozen rods built that way.

 

I use a variable speed lathe and wouldn't attempt doing this without that feature. Here's some pics:

switchrod.jpg

lathesteady3.jpg

rodsteadyone.jpg

driftrod.jpg

cottonwoodrod.jpg

 

Tony



#29 rrjansen

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 10:46 PM

Check out Grizzly.com for their chucks.  I got a four jawed chuck for mjy square wood handle turning and it works great.  Around  $65.



#30 fishbum

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 11:52 PM

I turn grips on the blank all the time. This is one of the smaller two-handed rods I make. I wouldn't think of doing it any other way. I never understood the mandrel thing.

 

Jerry

 

 

P2020258.JPG





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