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Advice on Alps printers for decals


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#1 switch10

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Posted 05 April 2015 - 12:43 PM

I've been using my Ksun Pearlabel 270 to print decals, and while it works just fine, the edges it leaves has been bothering me.  I haven't had a single customer mention it, but it really bothers me for some reason.

 

I've been looking into the Alps printers, and I'm not quite sure what I'll need for printing decals.  Would the Alps 1000 be sufficient?  I found a decent price on one.  Or should I spring for one of the more expensive models?

 

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you!



#2 steeldrifter

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Posted 05 April 2015 - 12:53 PM

I'm actually doing just the opposite myself. I'm going from an Alps 2300 to the Pearlabel 270. Having seen and talking to Ron I don't think the edges will be much different between the two IMO. The Alps waterslide may have a slight better edge, but the waterslide does have a faint whitish haze to it at certain angles, so what you gain in edges you give up in clarity.

 

Plus having owned my Alps 2300 for the past 8 years I will also tell you this. They are a tepermental pain in the ass. I've never had such a touchy printer as my Alps was. Sometimes it would come up "uninstalled" for no good reason, paper jams were common as could be even when there was no paper jam, issues with picking up the cartridges were common, and normally to get a decal with no visible lines through it I'd have to print four decals on two seperate lines on the paper. Then there's the fact that the thermal dry Alps like we use in rod building are not made any longer unless you spring for a $800-$1000 MD5000, so repair/replacement/support is non existant these days.

 

My honest opinion....stay with the Pearlabel 270, you will be far ahead in money, irritation, and IMO have better looking decals.


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“If you say that getting the money is the most important thing, you'll spend your life completely wasting your time. You'll be doing things you don't like doing in order to go on living, that is to go on doing things you don't like doing, which is stupid. Better to have a short life, doing what you like doing, than a long life spent in a miserable way." - Alan Watts

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=VPCp5xsP-vk

 


#3 switch10

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Posted 05 April 2015 - 01:04 PM

That settles that then Steve.  I was hoping you'd respond as I know you have experience with these Alps printers.  I'll stick with the Pearlabel then, thank you!



#4 Don @ American Tackle

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Posted 14 April 2015 - 08:46 AM

A couple things you can do to reduce (not eliminate) the edges with the 270.... 

 

Wrap a sacrificial thread over the decal to help press the decal tighter to the blank. I use an old E size thread, wrap it on tight and remove after 5 minutes.

 

Then CP the edges.....

 

I think Rod builder are the only ones who care about the edges.... never had a customer say a word. 


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#5 switch10

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Posted 14 April 2015 - 03:05 PM

Thanks Don.  I have not tried to CP the edges, thanks for the tip.

 

Usually what I do is put the decal face side on the sticky side of a piece of vinyl transfer tape.  Then I peel the backing off, and put it on the rod.  Then I heat up the edges with my heat gun, and use a roller to squeeze out any excess adhesive away from the edge.  Then I clean up any remaining adhesive with some rubbing alcohol.  I've noticed the sooner I put finish on the decal, the better it comes out.  The edges seem like they slowly lift over time.

 

I've had some turn out really nice actually.  I just wish I was a bit more consistant.  I've noticed that the edges are hardly noticable at all on the "woven" section of the American Tackle Matrix blanks.



#6 John T.

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 04:46 AM

I had the same problem with edges lifting- posted on another thread recently.  Burnish the crap out of the decal!  I have noticed that a bit of CP can hide the edge a bit.


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#7 switch10

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Posted 17 April 2015 - 08:28 PM

I just hit the edges on the label on my latest build, but it didn't seem to make much difference.

 

Are you guys covering the entire label and blank with CP, or just the edges?



#8 John T.

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 07:02 AM

Just the edges.  I did an experiment with decals on a scrap blank.  I feel that lots of burnishing in the decal, particularly the edges, is the key to keeping them on the blank.


John T.

 

 

Marriage is like a deck of cards- in the beginning, all you need is two hearts and a diamond.  In the end, you wish you had a club and a spade.




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