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To color preserve or not to color preserve


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#1 Campsquire

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 07:13 AM

I built a rod in 2015 using the CTS vintage blank and REC components. It came out nice....accept.....

I've pulled out two snake guides on a few of occasions. I've been lucky enough that just one end pulled out  so I have not lost a guide anyway. They've always slipped back in and I've been able to continue to fish.

 

I have a theory - color preserver prevents Flex coat epoxy from penetrating the thread. It's difficult to get a homoginous bond of thread/guide/rod resuting in a weak mount.

 

On the other hand, if you ommit color preserver, light color threads look like crap. They turn translucent exposing the guide foot and the whip finish thread end.

 

A couple of slutions -

1. Use dark color threads without color preserver - an aesthetic compromise.

2. Use non-color preserver thread.

 

I have never tried the second solution.

Can anyone comment?

Does it behave just like a wrap with color preserver or can you get good penetration of the coating?

 

It's possible I didn't use enough thread tension when I wrapped the guides in question I supopose.

 

Another issue I have with snake guides is my knotted leader knots get stuck in the space where the guide meets the rod.

I'm thinking I should have applied enough epoxy to create a fillet there.

Comments?

 

One more question - do you seal a cork grip and what do you use?

 

 

 

 



#2 PENZZZ

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 08:23 AM

Regarding your solution #1, don't limit yourself to dark thread when not using CP. Bright colors will darken when epoxy is applied and still show color. Do some experimentation to learn how various colors change when epoxy is applied. Remember also that the blank color will also impact final thread color. Good luck.

#3 typhoon

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 08:57 AM

Technically the epoxy is just there to protect the wraps, which hold the guide in place.

I frequently use CP and have never had a guide pull out (including single foots). Certainly make sure you have adequate thread tension, but most important is to fill the guide tunnels with epoxy.

I find NCP thread doesn't soak up epoxy like standard nylon. I don't know if that impacts strength. 



#4 John T.

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 11:28 AM

Wrap the thread and wet it with water or DNA.  This will give an idea what the wrap will look like.


John T.

 

 

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#5 Campsquire

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 12:14 PM

Helpful comments folks. Thanks alot.

Cork grip finish?



#6 typhoon

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 12:21 PM

Helpful comments folks. Thanks alot.

Cork grip finish?

None. I finish my grips with 3200 grit micromesh sanding pads. It really gives them a unique feel.

Cork is not porous so no need to seal it.



#7 phg

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 02:40 PM

Nope, no finish on the cork.  Fish slime is the only acceptable finish on a cork grip, and that can only be accomplished on the stream.



#8 Spiel

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 05:37 PM

There's no right or wrong here just helpful insight and opinions.

Mine, hate CP, don't want it on any rods but at times I'm required to do so.

I do believe it inhibits the bonding of guide to blank, however failure is not frequent.



#9 Dave-G.

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Posted 16 July 2016 - 05:38 AM

If you go with the color preserved thread like Pro Wrap or one of those, you will notice that the color is a bit muted compared with regular wrapping thread. Color for color the standard thread is brighter looking. Finish does bring it up a bit but it's never as bright as regular wrapping thread.. With some colors I don't mind that but to me other colors look lousy ( like pewter or non metallic silver for instance, too dull).





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