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Writting on blanks


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#1 Jojackc

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 01:01 AM

Does anyone ever just use sharpie markers to write on the rod blanks? I tried a Zig memory pen today that I picked up at the craft store on clearance. It wrote beautifully but would wipe right off with your finger. I know paint markers stick just fine but don't have one in the color I want. If not I guess I'm to the craft store to pick up a black paint marker haha.

#2 CBarclay

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 09:06 AM

QUOTE (Jojackc @ Sep 11 2012, 01:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Does anyone ever just use sharpie markers to write on the rod blanks? I tried a Zig memory pen today that I picked up at the craft store on clearance. It wrote beautifully but would wipe right off with your finger. I know paint markers stick just fine but don't have one in the color I want. If not I guess I'm to the craft store to pick up a black paint marker haha.

I'm not familiar with the Zig memory pen but you may try a fixative after it's applied so that the ink cures quickly. Or try a hair dryer to spedd up curing time?

#3 roadking

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 09:35 AM

This has been discussed a lot and the consensus is that decals are the way to go. You can have one made to say what you want and it comes out perfect. That said, I'm stubborn and I keep trying to get my handwriting to come out nicely. Once in a while it looks OK. I've found the best pens are the ones that Creative Memories sell, stole a couple from my wife. You want to test anything you buy, I've found some that have silicone in them and will ruin a batch of finish quickly. A good fixitif works wonders for smearing.
Some folks use a nib and paint, I've tried it and get mixed results, mostly due to bad penmanship. Buy and try, the finer the tip the better.

Mike

#4 Rod O Rama

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 10:57 AM

Sharpie ink will eventually fade away. Ask me how I know that one wallbash.gif . Happened to my first Bamboo build.

Pete
http://www.renaissanceflyrods.com/
If I ever build the perfect rod, I'll retire.

#5 Jojackc

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 10:26 PM

It will even fade under rod finish? I haven't hit it with fixatif yet. I usually do before I hit it will thread finish. This Zag pen would wipe off with my fingers before I added any fixatif. The paint markers atleast won't do that. I was afraid to hit it with fixatif since it wouldn't even dry for a touch test. Decals are great. I have bad luck putting them on. I have tryed the sticker kind and water slides and I just mess them up. Plus I really feel that the hand writting even if its not the best adds character to the rod. Any of the higher end factory rods always have hand written info on them.

#6 Rod O Rama

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Posted 12 September 2012 - 07:18 AM

Don't know about rod finish, bit it faded under Spar Varnish with UV protectors in it.
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If I ever build the perfect rod, I'll retire.

#7 TightLineRods

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 09:45 PM

Hey Jojackc,

When I started building rods in the 70's the color was yellow and the size was big . . .I was a calligrapher (artistic lettering for documents, certificates, etc) as a part time endeaver so the combo of India ink and the yellow Fenwick rods was great. I left building about 11 years after beginning and then returned in 2003. Now the rods were black & small . . .so much for the earlier combo! Unless you were building surf rods or large off shore rods, nothing was available to do the job properly. I then started getting decals . . .and then making my own after some time to maintain consistent quality.

Peel & stick decals are the way to go for the finishing touch to custom rods. It saves YOU time & money working up the "learning curve" of printing your own. I would not consider a decal for a bamboo rods as tradition has it that the builder should sign it in his handwriting for the final personal touch-just my opinion on this issue.

One major item when creating a decal - what looks good on a billboard will probably not look good on a rod decal!! Design your decals with a simple layout "at the actual size you will be using them" Then you can see the design issues immediately as opposed to when I get them and have to reduce them 1000% percent to fit the 3wt fly rod that was just purchased!!!!!

Keep 'em turning and call me if I can be of service.

Charlie
See my website for the PEEL & STICK METALLIC DECALS in RED, GREEN, BLUE , GOLD, SILVER, BLACK & WHITE
TLCRods --- We do CUSTOM ROD DECALS so YOU don't have to!!!

#8 Jojackc

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 10:31 PM

QUOTE (TightLineRods @ Sep 17 2012, 07:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hey Jojackc,

When I started building rods in the 70's the color was yellow and the size was big . . .I was a calligrapher (artistic lettering for documents, certificates, etc) as a part time endeaver so the combo of India ink and the yellow Fenwick rods was great. I left building about 11 years after beginning and then returned in 2003. Now the rods were black & small . . .so much for the earlier combo! Unless you were building surf rods or large off shore rods, nothing was available to do the job properly. I then started getting decals . . .and then making my own after some time to maintain consistent quality.

Peel & stick decals are the way to go for the finishing touch to custom rods. It saves YOU time & money working up the "learning curve" of printing your own. I would not consider a decal for a bamboo rods as tradition has it that the builder should sign it in his handwriting for the final personal touch-just my opinion on this issue.

One major item when creating a decal - what looks good on a billboard will probably not look good on a rod decal!! Design your decals with a simple layout "at the actual size you will be using them" Then you can see the design issues immediately as opposed to when I get them and have to reduce them 1000% percent to fit the 3wt fly rod that was just purchased!!!!!

Keep 'em turning and call me if I can be of service.

Charlie



Thanks for the help. I tryed the print and stick types that you bring on those avery labels. I did that on my first rod that I built. Your right there is a learning curve for sure. I'm pretty sure I spent more time getting that label right then I did building the rest of the rod. I have a conventional rod build coming up for my father in law. I will give it another go on that one. It will give me a bit more room to work with. Also do you use CP over your labels? My cp made that label look a bit coudy and I didn't like that. You can tell there is CP on it.

#9 TightLineRods

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 08:47 PM

Hey Jo,

Nothing goes on the decal after it's applied except the epoxy of choice. . .there is no need to! No Permagloss either as the Xylene in the product will destroy it!

What does the CP do for the decal installation? I don't use CP for what it is designed for and definitely not over a decal. If the decal is a high quality decal with an agressive adhesive and it is applied properly, there should be no need to apply anything but the epoxy.

Charlie

(Four outage days down and eight to go - rained all day today - of course, the bulk of the projects were OUTSIDE . . .Good ole' Murphy!!)
See my website for the PEEL & STICK METALLIC DECALS in RED, GREEN, BLUE , GOLD, SILVER, BLACK & WHITE
TLCRods --- We do CUSTOM ROD DECALS so YOU don't have to!!!

#10 Jojackc

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 10:53 PM

QUOTE (TightLineRods @ Sep 18 2012, 06:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hey Jo,

Nothing goes on the decal after it's applied except the epoxy of choice. . .there is no need to! No Permagloss either as the Xylene in the product will destroy it!

What does the CP do for the decal installation? I don't use CP for what it is designed for and definitely not over a decal. If the decal is a high quality decal with an agressive adhesive and it is applied properly, there should be no need to apply anything but the epoxy.

Charlie

(Four outage days down and eight to go - rained all day today - of course, the bulk of the projects were OUTSIDE . . .Good ole' Murphy!!)



Hum.. I was told to add it to first to keep the seams from lifting. Maybe it was unnecessary. I also do not use it for what its designed for for the same reasons haha. If I want CP I just buy the thread already treated with it.

#11 kbproctor

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 11:20 PM

The vast majority of peel & stick decals that I use are on the Avery labels and are designed on my computer and printed on an inkjet printer. ANY decal printed on an inkjet printer will need to have a couple of coats of fixatif over the printing or it will come off. With the Avery Shipping Labels, you MUST use the CP on the edges or the edges will lift.

The Tightline Decals have a different adhesive and he edges will stay put with enough pressure during application. I use CP on Charlie's decals as well just because it makes me feel better but only on the edges. His decals are printed with a thermal transfer printer and the "ink" does not need to be protected with fixatif.
Kevin

Colorado Custom Fly Rods, Ltd.

If your parents never had kids, chances are you won't either....

#12 Jojackc

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 11:41 PM

QUOTE (kbproctor @ Sep 18 2012, 09:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The vast majority of peel & stick decals that I use are on the Avery labels and are designed on my computer and printed on an inkjet printer. ANY decal printed on an inkjet printer will need to have a couple of coats of fixatif over the printing or it will come off. With the Avery Shipping Labels, you MUST use the CP on the edges or the edges will lift.

The Tightline Decals have a different adhesive and he edges will stay put with enough pressure during application. I use CP on Charlie's decals as well just because it makes me feel better but only on the edges. His decals are printed with a thermal transfer printer and the "ink" does not need to be protected with fixatif.


I also used fixatif on my labels so I got that right haha!

#13 RayZCT

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 07:14 AM

Purchase some plain decal paper and a Pilot Gold or Silver Marker pen in the fine tip. Practice your penmanship on paper first then make your own decals. I normally use dry transfer lettering but when I run out of the letters I need I go to the marking pens for getting information on the rod.

#14 hbell

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 10:22 PM

QUOTE (RayZCT @ Sep 23 2012, 08:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Purchase some plain decal paper and a Pilot Gold or Silver Marker pen in the fine tip. Practice your penmanship on paper first then make your own decals. I normally use dry transfer lettering but when I run out of the letters I need I go to the marking pens for getting information on the rod.


What is dry transfer lettering?

#15 kbproctor

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 10:49 PM

QUOTE (hbell @ Oct 18 2012, 09:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (RayZCT @ Sep 23 2012, 08:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Purchase some plain decal paper and a Pilot Gold or Silver Marker pen in the fine tip. Practice your penmanship on paper first then make your own decals. I normally use dry transfer lettering but when I run out of the letters I need I go to the marking pens for getting information on the rod.


What is dry transfer lettering?


It will say dry transfer and/or rub-on on the package. You can see through the paper to position it and then rub it down with a stylus, dull pencil, ball point pen. I use a modeling tool from my leather working tool box.
Kevin

Colorado Custom Fly Rods, Ltd.

If your parents never had kids, chances are you won't either....



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