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Blueing hardware


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#1 rudy

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 08:49 AM

Hi there,
I would like to get some help and suggestions on how to blue your own hardware.
I am considering using blued hardware (snakes, winding check etc.) for some future projects and I am in doubt if it is worth
The effort to do it myself instead of buying it somewhere.

If you've got some experience with doning this it would be nice if you want share it with me.
The same goes for people who have bought blued hardware. Can you share where you got it and give an impression of the quality.

Thanks a lot.
Cheers,
Rudy

#2 John T.

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 12:29 PM

I'm not sure how this might affect the temper of the metal- others might chime in here to correct me. I have seen metal gun parts heated and plunged in plain motor oil. Do this outside, of course. Would a cold blue for guns work? Have to try it as I have some bluing left over.
OK, guys, your turn!

John T.

 

 

Marriage is like a deck of cards- in the beginning, all you need is two hearts and a diamond.  In the end, you wish you had a club and a spade.


#3 mdraft1

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 02:13 PM

Bluing hardware is not hard, but you do have to make sure the parts are perfectly clean and free from oils before you blue them. I would check out Golden Witch's website for a good bluing solution.

www.proofflyfishing.com

 

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#4 AgMD

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 06:46 PM

For iron based hardware, such as guides, I have had excellent success with Brownell's Ox-Pho-Blue, which is a cold blue product for guns. Works well on old snakes but many of the modern snakes are stainless or some other exotic alloy, and they will not blue well at all.
Brass, including nickel silver, can be blued by any one of the commercial brass bluing products. Birchwood Casey is one that I have found some success with although others dis like it. I have found that polishing the brass ( NS) with 1000 grit or red rouge will result in a blotchy finish. Better results are obtained with a lesser grade of sand paper such as 800 grit. Blued brass is not a durable finish and should be over coated with a clear spray lacquer.
All bluing methods demand an absolutely clean metal. I use denatured alcohol on a clean cotton cloth to degrease. Do not use paper towels. They are usually doped with stuff to keep them soft and that stuff will contaminate your metal.
Aluminum does not blue well at all. You can paint it but painting aluminum is a tricky operation at best.
If you have the choice, you are probably better off buying things with the finish you want and limit bluing efforts to restorations and situations where you just can't buy the finish you want.
AgMD
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But it sure beats fishin with a ten dollar lure

#5 runner

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 07:44 AM

I have blued Nickel Silver using a product used by film developers - Kodak fixer - a teaspoon in 8 oz of warm water - add hardware and wham - blued

#6 AgMD

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 09:50 AM

Runner,
Is the fixer you use powdered fixer or liquid Rapid Fix?
AgMD
Now fishin' with Spam may be crazy for sure
But it sure beats fishin with a ten dollar lure



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