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Member Since 22 Sep 2010
Offline Last Active Mar 20 2020 04:44 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Please help me to prioritise

11 July 2012 - 01:26 PM

You will find that you buy some equipment that you do not use, some equipment that you do not need but are the most satisfied with, and some basic equipment that you will use on every single rod and becomes an integral part of *your* process.

For example my lists look like:

Equipment that I do not use:
roughing form - Can use the tapered formed set out until you get a roughing beveller

Equipment I do not need but most satisfied with:
heat treating fixtures
roughing beveller
bench sander
ferrule fitting files
Japanese saw
wrapping cradle
turning motors
permanent markers

Basic equipment :
form/depth gage
block planes with great blades
diamond plates & guide
heat guns
node vice
cork clamp
sanding block
razor blades

Everybody has a list. It may be similar or very different depending on their process. I think the largest category is the equipment we do not need but are the most satisfied with....... (there is another similar category of equipment that we do not need but want anyway. I have purposely not listed that one since it tends to run ad infinitum.)

It is a living list and changes with time. It's growth is directly proportional to pressures/relief from SWMBO.

Good luck with your list.


In Topic: On to the next question....

18 October 2011 - 01:54 PM

No two oven designs behave the same.....and depending on your heat treating regime.............

I heat treat using fixtures and remove the fixtures with the bound strips from the oven after exposure to 375F for 14 min. My oven does not cool off very fast and I would be concerned with over coooking the bamboo by the time it cooled. Guessing it could be and additional 10 to 15 min of exposure to temps over 350F depending on the time of year.

I would definitly practice with your oven and pay close attention to the temp gradients within the oven, heat up, and cool down characteristics before exposing your strips to the heat.

You may want to practice heat treating on some practice splits to see if you are getting any color change along the length of the bamboo for whatever heat treating regime you decide to go with.

Hope this helps.


In Topic: Morgan Hand Mill

03 October 2011 - 09:57 PM


If you can afford a MHM then buy one and get started on your rod. However, creating a final taper on bamboo strips is just but one of many of the steps in making a rod and that MHM will not help you with all of the others. Actually, hand planing is not that steep of a learning curve after you learn the process. The MHM will not help with splitting, straightning strips, pressing nodes, heat treating, glueing, binding, installing ferrules, building a grip & reel seat, finishing & wrapping. None of it is very hard one piece at a time.......just get started.


In Topic: Help picking first block plane

22 August 2011 - 01:31 PM


The LN and new Stanley 9 1/2 represent both ends of the useable plane spectrum.... The older 9 1/2 or even the new ones can be fine planes with some work and a good blade. The LN is ready to go out of the box.

You may want to consider some of the middle ground like the Borg sold by Jeff Wagner (I would trust him if he says it is good) or the knuckle cap adjustable model at Woodcraft. It was on display at my local store and I took a few swipes on an edge of Maple. It is finished very well, looks ready to work out of the box (which most of all of the Stanley's are not) and I believe comes with an A2 blade. In general, avoid the low angle planes unless you want to compensate the low iron angle with the bevel edge angle.

Do not become paralyzed on this decision. Like others have noted, you probably will be buying more than one plane and each will develope their own niche.

BTW...I would buy 2 planes rather than a plane and a scraper. A single-edged razor blade is very effective for scraping that last wisp down to the forms.

Good luck with your first rod!