64 replies to this topic

[Rod O Rama]

I use a small disposable cup, with lid, to pour my finishes. Started out using a turkey baster. I guess getting the flow rate by squeezing a turkey baster was just too much for my feeble mind and manual dexterity . So I went to the cup. The cup works great. It has a screw on lid, so went I am done pouring, I pour the excess in the catch basin back in the cup. Put the lid on and wait until the next coat. 4 oz. will do several coats and when I am done, I let it the remaining finish dry in the cup and chuck it.

I do keep everything clean and haven't had a problem with dust boogers or the finish getting lumpy........ yet.

Pete

[roycestearns]

I've done the turkey baster method several times and actually like the results over dipping for longer 2 pc rods.
got a crazy idea this week so next time (two weeks) i'm trying one of these instead of the baster.
http://www.sallybeau...tml?cgid=Supp02

angled tip to get in tight and the flow rate of pouring. should work? i'll report back!

How did that color applicator work for you? it looks like a great idea.

[kbproctor]

Actually a friend of mine works in artifical insemination, maybe he's got something I could use?

Sounds like a quick way to get in and out of the finish room. Also sounds like an easy way to avoid screwing up the finish.

If you used something from your friend, would the rod sock need to be latex?

[cheffy]

I've done the turkey baster method several times and actually like the results over dipping for longer 2 pc rods.
got a crazy idea this week so next time (two weeks) i'm trying one of these instead of the baster.
http://www.sallybeau...tml?cgid=Supp02

angled tip to get in tight and the flow rate of pouring. should work? i'll report back!

How did that color applicator work for you? it looks like a great idea.

The color applicator worked great!!!
I loaded it with about 3 oz of Ace brand green label varnish,not thinned, warmed it just slightly as directions said not to apply over 90 degrees.

I kind of worked backwards. I started at the tiptop and worked my way up the rod while rotating it. the varnish drops were put on the flats and I made sure everything was coated. when I got to the top I gave it a few more drops. kind if spun the rod back and forth then gave it a light shake straight down to get the drops flowing in the downward. Hung it to dry. finish came out perfect! better than dipping!

I had some varnish left in the applicator, gave it a shot of Bloxogen and put some tape over the tip to seal it. a week later it's still good since I just used it again this morning. i don't know if there are little caps that fit those things but if there are I'd get several.

I did clean one just to try it. rinsed it out with mineral spirits, poured it out the gave it a DNA rinse. wiped it out an let it air dry. still good to go.
IMHO it's the best $1.89 I've ever spent for rod building.

[Rookie]

Here is a link to Bamboo Rods - How It's Made

http://www.youtube.c...feature=related

Ok, I'm confused (not an uncommon occurrence) and since I'm relatively new to rod building, and completely new to bamboo rod building, I'm hoping someone can un-confuse me. The video shows varnish being applied to the entire rod before the guides are wrapped, but not after they're wrapped. Most of your posts indicate you're applying varnish after the guides are wrapped as well.

So is there a "right way" or a "wrong way" or is it up to each builder to decide?

EG

one reason for applying the varnish to the blank before wrapping the guides is the time until wrapping.If the finished blank wil have to wait for more than few days..as you know..will regain moisture from the "atmosfere"..so it is applyed as a messure of precaution

Cheers,
Ovidiu